GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat

GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat (https://www.gmforum.com/)
-   Oldsmobile (https://www.gmforum.com/oldsmobile-171/)
-   -   Thinking of buying lo miles 1999 Olds 88 (https://www.gmforum.com/oldsmobile-171/thinking-buying-lo-miles-1999-olds-88-a-313669/)

jrmyers Mar 2, 2021 08:32 PM


Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman (Post 1639804)
I hope you have the oil cap. I've had 3 of these cars. The first two were the LS model and the last one was the base. My last one was a 1997 in Burgundy like yours. I bought it for $1100 @61k miles, drove it five years and sold it for a grand @116k miles.

Yeah, I've got the oil cap. Just had it off when I took the photo. Nice to know I can drive this for a few miles and still get a couple of bucks out of it. It might turn out to be the one car I didn't lose money on.

Mad_Coachman Mar 3, 2021 11:09 AM

My burgundy 1997 Olds 88 was one of the few cars that actually paid for itself. I replaced the water pump, the upper intake manifold and the battery. I generally buy these cars for about a grand. If something major like the transmission were to fail then I just cut my losses and find another one on Craigslist. I've replaced quite a few Upper Intake manifolds since 2005 on all of my 3800 cars. The one to buy is made by ATP. You can find it at Rock Auto or Amazon. It's cheap insurance for your engine.

jrmyers Mar 3, 2021 12:18 PM


Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman (Post 1639809)
My burgundy 1997 Olds 88 was one of the few cars that actually paid for itself. I replaced the water pump, the upper intake manifold and the battery. I generally buy these cars for about a grand. If something major like the transmission were to fail then I just cut my losses and find another one on Craigslist. I've replaced quite a few Upper Intake manifolds since 2005 on all of my 3800 cars. The one to buy is made by ATP. You can find it at Rock Auto or Amazon. It's cheap insurance for your engine.

Good to know. They seem to be a weak point with these engines.

rjolly87 Mar 4, 2021 01:20 AM

Looks like 1996 puts it in the 4T-60e era. No major concerns on those, except that they usually enjoy life better with an auxiliary cooler, and coupled with an adjustable vacuum modulator adjusted slightly to the firmer side, they still fair pretty well. Just remember the differentials are weak, and should not be abused (avoid 1 wheel peels and shock loads).

Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game.

jrmyers Mar 4, 2021 06:25 AM


Originally Posted by rjolly87 (Post 1639819)
Looks like 1996 puts it in the 4T-60e era. No major concerns on those, except that they usually enjoy life better with an auxiliary cooler, and coupled with an adjustable vacuum modulator adjusted slightly to the firmer side, they still fair pretty well. Just remember the differentials are weak, and should not be abused (avoid 1 wheel peels and shock loads).

Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game.

I''ve read about the auxiliary cooler. We've got hot summers/cold winters here so that's something I should consider. The tranny shifts well, but a bit firmer would be nice. I'm getting it serviced in the next week or two. Any idea on the cost of those two things?

Also, the engine compartment is filthy (dust, mostly) and I'd like to clean it up then watch for any coolant or oil leaks. Can the engine bay be pressure washed?

Mad_Coachman Mar 4, 2021 08:13 PM

Don't pressure wash ANY modern engine. You run a very good chance of screwing up some sensors.

jrmyers Mar 4, 2021 08:30 PM

Arrrgh. So it's down to NAPA for a tube of elbow grease.

CathedralCub Mar 4, 2021 09:49 PM

I agree about the transmission cooler. The bigger the better.

On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission

I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator.

Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that's still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it's toll on plastics.

jrmyers Mar 5, 2021 11:31 AM


Originally Posted by CathedralCub (Post 1639826)
I agree about the transmission cooler. The bigger the better.

On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission

I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator.

Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that's still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it's toll on plastics.

I've poked around some parts sites and can't find an auxiliary cooler. Where can I find it?

CathedralCub Mar 6, 2021 02:02 AM


Originally Posted by jrmyers (Post 1639834)
I've poked around some parts sites and can't find an auxiliary cooler. Where can I find it?

I think mine is a Hayden 405: https://www.haydenauto.com/en/ecatalog?partdetail=405


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:09 AM.


© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands