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Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman
(Post 1639804)
I hope you have the oil cap. I've had 3 of these cars. The first two were the LS model and the last one was the base. My last one was a 1997 in Burgundy like yours. I bought it for $1100 @61k miles, drove it five years and sold it for a grand @116k miles.
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My burgundy 1997 Olds 88 was one of the few cars that actually paid for itself. I replaced the water pump, the upper intake manifold and the battery. I generally buy these cars for about a grand. If something major like the transmission were to fail then I just cut my losses and find another one on Craigslist. I've replaced quite a few Upper Intake manifolds since 2005 on all of my 3800 cars. The one to buy is made by ATP. You can find it at Rock Auto or Amazon. It's cheap insurance for your engine.
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Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman
(Post 1639809)
My burgundy 1997 Olds 88 was one of the few cars that actually paid for itself. I replaced the water pump, the upper intake manifold and the battery. I generally buy these cars for about a grand. If something major like the transmission were to fail then I just cut my losses and find another one on Craigslist. I've replaced quite a few Upper Intake manifolds since 2005 on all of my 3800 cars. The one to buy is made by ATP. You can find it at Rock Auto or Amazon. It's cheap insurance for your engine.
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Looks like 1996 puts it in the 4T-60e era. No major concerns on those, except that they usually enjoy life better with an auxiliary cooler, and coupled with an adjustable vacuum modulator adjusted slightly to the firmer side, they still fair pretty well. Just remember the differentials are weak, and should not be abused (avoid 1 wheel peels and shock loads).
Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game. |
Originally Posted by rjolly87
(Post 1639819)
Looks like 1996 puts it in the 4T-60e era. No major concerns on those, except that they usually enjoy life better with an auxiliary cooler, and coupled with an adjustable vacuum modulator adjusted slightly to the firmer side, they still fair pretty well. Just remember the differentials are weak, and should not be abused (avoid 1 wheel peels and shock loads).
Also, as you are aware, get the UIM/LIM gaskets addressed with good coolant, and you should be well ahead of the game. Also, the engine compartment is filthy (dust, mostly) and I'd like to clean it up then watch for any coolant or oil leaks. Can the engine bay be pressure washed? |
Don't pressure wash ANY modern engine. You run a very good chance of screwing up some sensors.
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Arrrgh. So it's down to NAPA for a tube of elbow grease.
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I agree about the transmission cooler. The bigger the better.
On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator. Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that's still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it's toll on plastics. |
Originally Posted by CathedralCub
(Post 1639826)
I agree about the transmission cooler. The bigger the better.
On mine, I routed the lines: transmission >> my big giant cooler >> factory in-radiator cooler >> transmission I figure that this way I'd have a hard time getting it too cold . . . like when I'm buzzing along at 80MPH in 20 below zero, I bet that fluid gets cooled off really well, but then gets warmed up a bit when it gets to the radiator. Regarding the pressure washing: I tend to agree. some of it can be done safely if you're careful, but that's still iffy. As the car gets older it gets iffier as heat takes it's toll on plastics. |
Originally Posted by jrmyers
(Post 1639834)
I've poked around some parts sites and can't find an auxiliary cooler. Where can I find it?
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