Engine rebuild !!
#1
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Engine rebuild !!
as this being my first engine rebuild an as im only 19 i have some questions and started this thread for that and the entertainment of others lol well after the last three days of working on it after work, ive got the cam, rockers, push rods, lifters, and crank. and found the problem, cyl. 5 connecting rod was lose. the bolts were tight but you could wigle it around the crank a good amount. but no spun bearings.
Now what im planning on doing, all new bottem end bearings,new bottem end bolts, machined crank, lightly uesd cyl.5 rod and head gaskets. the engine alreadys has new series 3 rockers, push rods, lifters, and cam and are going back in. im pulling the heads to clean them thoughly (some gunk build up) and thinking about since im in there why not just go ahead and port them.
Now the questions
1. should i pull the rods and pistions and put new rings on ?
2.later down the road i want to supercharge it,nothing to far just a stock pully with supporting mods. i have a good set of series 3 superchaged heads, should i go ahead and put those on here now and just plug the injectors ports until i do supercharge it ?
and yes i will post pics later tonight
thanks
Now what im planning on doing, all new bottem end bearings,new bottem end bolts, machined crank, lightly uesd cyl.5 rod and head gaskets. the engine alreadys has new series 3 rockers, push rods, lifters, and cam and are going back in. im pulling the heads to clean them thoughly (some gunk build up) and thinking about since im in there why not just go ahead and port them.
Now the questions
1. should i pull the rods and pistions and put new rings on ?
2.later down the road i want to supercharge it,nothing to far just a stock pully with supporting mods. i have a good set of series 3 superchaged heads, should i go ahead and put those on here now and just plug the injectors ports until i do supercharge it ?
and yes i will post pics later tonight
thanks
#2
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
These motors are very picky about being rebuilt and many have found out the hard way that you almost always must align bore and have a machine shop go through it all to ensure the tolerances are correct and it all lines up perfectly. I myself got 200 miles from a motor I tried to replace a bearing on when everything seemed and spec'd well. I like to learn lessons the hard and expensive way. Try not to follow my footsteps.
The other thing you'll find is the cylinders and rings probably look fantastic in your motor. At 186K miles, I still had cross hatches in the cylinders. The rings don't apply a lot of outter pressure and therefore the cylinders are usually in amazing shape.
The other thing you'll find is the cylinders and rings probably look fantastic in your motor. At 186K miles, I still had cross hatches in the cylinders. The rings don't apply a lot of outter pressure and therefore the cylinders are usually in amazing shape.
#3
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If you're planning on a top swap, search this forum for what you'll need. You'll find the results are great, but it is a LOT more work.
You'll need aftermarket extension cords for a couple of sensors, and from a good L67 engine, the throttle body, connecting rods, and pistons… and that'* just what I recall off the top of my head. You'll also need a hell of a tune afterwards to compensate for the supercharger (or if you swap the computer, too, the higher compression).
Not sure if the S3 heads will fit, but yes, you will need to plug those fuel injector ports.
If you go this route, good luck! The entire forum will be watching. If not, hey, you've got an overhauled engine either way.
You'll need aftermarket extension cords for a couple of sensors, and from a good L67 engine, the throttle body, connecting rods, and pistons… and that'* just what I recall off the top of my head. You'll also need a hell of a tune afterwards to compensate for the supercharger (or if you swap the computer, too, the higher compression).
Not sure if the S3 heads will fit, but yes, you will need to plug those fuel injector ports.
If you go this route, good luck! The entire forum will be watching. If not, hey, you've got an overhauled engine either way.
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so bill if i understand what your saying is to just leave the pistons and rods alone ? the crank from this engine is shot, i have a machiend one i picked up today form another s2 with a spun bearing, but looks brand new now. do i need to put in another rod in cyl. 5, the one that came out looked normal just the bearing was toast. so can i just put in new bearings with the crank and be good ?
i have changed my mind and decided to just stick NA for now and since i have a s3 block, heads, piston and rods from a supercharged one,just do a s3 build later on
thanks
i have changed my mind and decided to just stick NA for now and since i have a s3 block, heads, piston and rods from a supercharged one,just do a s3 build later on
thanks
#5
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What I'm telling you is most don't have good luck with what you are about to do. I STRONGLY suggest a machine shop for that motor, which will end up costing you more than a used motor that runs good.
Colin.. (signofzeta), I don't know where you got that list in your post..but it'* really really really really wrong.
Colin.. (signofzeta), I don't know where you got that list in your post..but it'* really really really really wrong.
#6
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bill what all do you suggest i get done ? if i leave the top alone and just focus on the bottem end , i already have a machiened crank, what else needs to see a machine shop ?
#8
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I didn't notice you saying the crank was machined. You'll want it align bored, checked every way possible, have each rod checked and sized for the bearings.
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sorry i havent got any pics up yet, its a pita to upload them from my phone.
i got all my parts in today execpt bearings.
and i need new rod bolts and main cap bolts, do you know where i can get some ? zzp has them and but there 100 for rod bolts.
thanks
i got all my parts in today execpt bearings.
and i need new rod bolts and main cap bolts, do you know where i can get some ? zzp has them and but there 100 for rod bolts.
thanks