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I put the meter probes into the ABS plug, set it to ohms and wiggled the harness and plug connection. It read a rock steady 1,100-ish ohms the whole time. I'm not sure exactly where to go from here. What puzzles me is why it worked fine with the crossover harnesses I made. Would just a cheap oscilloscope work for what I need? I could swap the hubs (ugh) and see if I get a C1233 code. If I do then that would be 100% verification that it is the hub. If I still get C1232 then it is probably in the ABS module.
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Just for the heck of it I hooked up my cross over harnesses again. After starting the car it immediately had the Trac Off and Service Vehicle Soon lights on but no ABS light on. Pulled codes and had a C1232 and a C1298 code. Plus there is a few additional codes (on top of the pile from before) I did not have before: U1040 and U1255
Here are all the codes it has now: P0463 (the fuel gauge goes to full when starting but drops to below empty and fuel low light on after about 30 seconds of running) U1040 C1232 C1298 B2965 B2752 U1000 B2575 B2585 B2577 B2578 B2587 B2588 B2648 B2600 B2601 B2602 B2603 B1001 U1255 I cleared the ABS codes and put it in gear on the jack stands. The only light that came on was the Trac Off when getting above about 30 MPH. Any other ideas? |
Originally Posted by Shanester
(Post 1644917)
I got to thinking about CathedralCub's post. If the wiring harness was actually disconnected or shorted would it throw the code right away or does the car need to move? I'm sure I could find out myself by trying that but wanted to know how it is supposed to work.
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I swapped hubs from right to left and no more dash lights. WTF? Could one of the cheap hubs been shorting out initially and had to "break in"?
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That's weird.
No, no break in period for hubs on this. |
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