I bought the car recently and received two ignition keys. No matter which key is used, the Security dash light comes on and stays on. It doesn't flash initially, just lights up and stays that way until I turn the car off. I've put a scan tool on it and there are no stored DTC codes. The car always starts and runs normally.

I can't swear to it, but I don't think the light was on when I bought the car.

Will the car continue to operate normally, or is there a chance at some point it won't start, or start then die? Should I take it to a dealer and have the keys re-programmed? Get new keys? What might be involved here? The car has very low miles and everything else works perfectly.

If the engine starts with the security light ON, it is in "fail enable mode" which means that the system failed while the engine was running. If the battery is ever disconnected or fails, you may not be able to to start the engine.

"Should I take it to a dealer and have the keys re-programmed? Get new keys? What might be involved here? The car has very low miles and everything else works perfectly."
The keys have a resistor chip embedded into the key and no reprogramming is required. The key reader in the ignition lock/switch measures the resistance of the chip/resistor and sends that to the TDM/BCM to enable start. If that connection failed while the engine was running, you will be able to start until the battery is disconnected/failed and at which time the engine will no longer start.

Thanks for the replies everybody. I like the fact that you're in agreement. It sounds like a trip to a dealership. Any idea what'* involved in the fix? The car'* got a new battery, but you never know....

Also, what'* a TDM/BCM?

Just an Check your owners manual for the remote synchronization procedure. My Pk Ave = Press & hold the remote'* Lock & Unlock buttons together for (8 to 10 seconds) until the horn honks.
Start the car & then see if that gets the security light to eventually goes off.
It may take it twice as above to make it happen,

Thanks! I'll give it a shot.

I've been doing some research on this problem. Sounds like the PASS key system is kinda crappy. It only lasts a few years and then starts messing up. The car is 25 years old, so no wonder the dash light is on. PASS key is an anti-theft system that'* old and primitive and prone to failure in several different ways. The various bypass solutions (wiring a resistor inline between the ignition and TDM module) seem like a bad hack that is also vulnerable to failing.

Anybody have any experience with the NEWROCKIES Inc PRO Passlock Bypass system?

It looks expensive (but cheaper than taking the car to the dealer and having them deal with it) but seems a solid solution. It essentially replaces the TDM and no matter what else may be failing with the PASS key system, sends a consistent "everything'* OK, don't you worry about it" signal to the ECU.

Sounds like a good idea to me. Any thoughts?

Soldering a resistor is about as permanent as it gets.

When mine goes that'* what I'll be doing. It'* a year younger than yours with ~245,000 miles on it.

What attracts me to the NewRockies solution is that every other piece of the PASS key system, the key, the ignition cylinder and the TDM/BCM can fail and the ECU will keeping getting the message that everything'* hunky dory and won't shut the car down. At least that'* the way NewRockies explains it.

Here'* a link, in case you've never been to the site:

NEWROCKIES Inc. Passlock Bypass disables the ENTIRE system.

It looks like a good thing.

A lot of opinion in their claims . . . like (but not limited to) the one where the TDM only lasts seven years. News to me. Mine is 24 and still going strong, and I've heard of a bazillion where the resistor trick fixes it and can't recall one (from this era of GM) where the TDM/BCM is the problem.

I'm not against it.

Sure is strange they don't show a picture of it though.