93 Olds 98 - starts and immediately dies.
04-26-2008, 08:07 PM
#1
PopaDopaDo
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
93 Olds 98 - starts and immediately dies.
This is my co-workers and thats about all we know at this point.
It is a series 1 naturally aspirated. She starts everytime and immediately dies. He said there was no engine light on.
What are my possibilities?
It is a series 1 naturally aspirated. She starts everytime and immediately dies. He said there was no engine light on.
What are my possibilities?
04-29-2008, 10:06 AM
#4
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Unplug the MAF...if that doesn't work, plug it back in and unplug the TPS. If THAT doesn't work...ICM, crank, or cam sensor may be the issue.
Or PCM.
Or PCM.
05-01-2008, 07:16 PM
#5
PopaDopaDo
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Ok I got it running today.
I cleaned the TB, Maf, IAC, and PVC valve. I didn't wanna touch the EGR.
Replaced some vacuum lines, I ran out of the little I had in my toolbag so theres still some connecters between the hardline that needs replacing.
Tested the Fuel Pressures. 42 @ idle. 51 @ idle w/Vacuum line disconnected. No gas or odor in the vacuum line. Pressure did not bleed off in under a minute. it actually seems to run a little better with the vacuum line disconnected but still not great.
When I first started it up she ran great until it got a little warm and the valve covers started leaking oil, producing gobs of smoke which is when it also began to run rough, occasionally stalling.
It runs crappy but does not throw a code. Unplugging the MAF produces no noticeable change after a moment of 'hiccup'
unplugging the TPS increases the RPM'* and she runs pretty good though she'll run good if you give it a little gas too.
Voltage on the battery is 11.93 (possibly from all the start/stall cycles), 14.3 with engine running.
O2 sensor age is unknown.
When running at idle there is a metallic ting sound that I could not locate with a stethoscope. Its definitely on the right side of the engine and sounds like its coming from the Alt area. I listened to the alt, tensioner, waterpump, PS Pump, Ac compressor... It seems to clear up with rpm'* and I suspect it may be the harmonic balance but I did not have time to get a look at it.
Tested the TPS and there is a dead spot at 3kOhms. Resistance to ground on the center pin was 1k - 4.4kOhms which sounds right but could someone confirm please.
The car has 121k miles on her and a tune up last fall. I had to talk him out of scrapping her so he'* offered the car to me.
Do Series one suffer from LIM Gaskets issues?
How do you test the Crank sensor or Cam sensor
Thanks
I cleaned the TB, Maf, IAC, and PVC valve. I didn't wanna touch the EGR.
Replaced some vacuum lines, I ran out of the little I had in my toolbag so theres still some connecters between the hardline that needs replacing.
Tested the Fuel Pressures. 42 @ idle. 51 @ idle w/Vacuum line disconnected. No gas or odor in the vacuum line. Pressure did not bleed off in under a minute. it actually seems to run a little better with the vacuum line disconnected but still not great.
When I first started it up she ran great until it got a little warm and the valve covers started leaking oil, producing gobs of smoke which is when it also began to run rough, occasionally stalling.
It runs crappy but does not throw a code. Unplugging the MAF produces no noticeable change after a moment of 'hiccup'
unplugging the TPS increases the RPM'* and she runs pretty good though she'll run good if you give it a little gas too.
Voltage on the battery is 11.93 (possibly from all the start/stall cycles), 14.3 with engine running.
O2 sensor age is unknown.
When running at idle there is a metallic ting sound that I could not locate with a stethoscope. Its definitely on the right side of the engine and sounds like its coming from the Alt area. I listened to the alt, tensioner, waterpump, PS Pump, Ac compressor... It seems to clear up with rpm'* and I suspect it may be the harmonic balance but I did not have time to get a look at it.
Tested the TPS and there is a dead spot at 3kOhms. Resistance to ground on the center pin was 1k - 4.4kOhms which sounds right but could someone confirm please.
The car has 121k miles on her and a tune up last fall. I had to talk him out of scrapping her so he'* offered the car to me.
Do Series one suffer from LIM Gaskets issues?
How do you test the Crank sensor or Cam sensor
Thanks
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