Oldsmobile Alero Starting
 

I drive the 2003 Oldsmobile Alero. This morning I should go to job, but the car will not actually start, first time it only stays on for a 2 or 3 seconds. And that's it..... It sounded like the car was not getting any gas.

I read a lot about security system. Great job, thank for posting it.

So, when I turn on the key the security stays on solid all the time (the security light was not blinking), I have waited around 15 or 20 minutes.

Anyone with similar experiences? Because of the coronavirus everything is closed (I mean mechanical garage, etc.) and I am totally frustrated with public transport (6 buses to work, round trip).
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...48d02f13aa.jpg

Almost sounds like the Passlock Anti Theft system, but you say the light never flashed after the car shut itself off?
Usually the engine will shut itself off, and the light will blink for a while, then the next time you start your car, or attempt to the light becomes solid...

Without a scanner like a Tech 2 I am not sure how to know for sure whether or not it is the Passkey system, but if it is then you may be able to fix it yourself via bypassing it..
Then any key used in the ignition would start it, if you are not worried about that you can read up on it via this site..

GM Passlock Security Fix

Hello William,

Almost sounds like the Passlock Anti Theft system, but you say the light never flashed after the car shut itself off?

You know it difficult to say, first time it only stays on for couple of seconds. After that I switched ignition to OFF. I didn't mention security light first time.

Usually the engine will shut itself off, and the light will blink for a while, then the next time you start your car, or attempt to the light becomes solid...

What we have now,
if I switch ignition to ON -> security light on all the time. 5 minutes... 10 minutes … 15 minutes
if I switch ignition to ON -> then START engine -> then ON -> security light will be off after 5 seconds


P.S. after many attempts I smelled the oil stick, smells just a oil, no gas.
Is it normal behaviour? Just little details to understand what's going on.

The problem is after attempting to start the engine, if the SECURITY light should flashes or stays on, but in my case the light goes off after a 5 seconds.

Just read the link you provided.

Maybe you missed the security light blinking the first time the motor started and died?
The light staying on, and it not sounding like it is getting fuel also makes me think the passlock ignition sensor is starting to fail, when it does it kills the starter ground, and the injectors...
You are saying it starts and runs now, then the light goes off after 5 seconds?
Or do you mean you start it, cut it off, then in 5 seconds the light goes off?

Could be intermittent failure of the passlock ignition sensor

The only way you are going to know for sure is to be able to have a dealer, or good shop scan it with a Tech II, and see what codes are set.

Thanks for your time!

Maybe you missed the security light blinking the first time the motor started and died?
Absolutely, it could be, I could miss this info. Because the motor started -> OFF -> and I put the key to OFF.

The light staying on, and it not sounding like it is getting fuel also makes me think the passlock ignition sensor is starting to fail, when it does it kills the starter ground, and the injectors...

You are saying it starts and runs now, then the light goes off after 5 seconds?

Here is 2 possibilities:
if I switch ignition to ON -> security light on all the time. 5 … 15 minutes. I didn't try more than 15 minutes. Should I?
if I switch ignition to ON -> then START engine (security light will be off after a couple of seconds) -> then ON -> security light will still OFF

It should be like this or something wrong?

Or do you mean you start it, cut it off, then in 5 seconds the light goes off?
Yes, you are right, the light will OFF if I start the engine.

Could be intermittent failure of the passlock ignition sensor

Hmm, interesting, is it possible to disable passlock completely?

The only way you are going to know for sure is to be able to have a dealer, or good shop scan it with a Tech II, and see what codes are set.

You know all business are closed now, I just spoke with one local garage (it's open during the COVID 19), they believe it fuel pump or ignition system. I must tow the car.
Security passlock is not so popular nowadays, probably we must to back into the past.

You do not have a way to check fuel pressure do you? If so I believe 45-46 is about right for your car, need to verify that though.

If it is passlock then essentially it is the ignition system, granted other parts like the BCM circuit can fail, usually it is the ignition switch.
In that link you can bypass Passlock if you do not want to put in a new ignition switch.
They list the 2 cheap parts needed, no soldiering necessary.


I just wish it was easier for you to get it scanned for codes using a tech II scanner, then you would know that is or isn't the issue.

You do not have a way to check fuel pressure do you? If so I believe 45-46 is about right for your car, need to verify that though.

But if something wrong with passlock -> it will be no fuel pressure. Am I right?
I tried multiple times to run the engine, but the oil stick still smells like used oil. It should smell the gas a little bit.

If it is passlock then essentially it is the ignition system, granted other parts like the BCM circuit can fail, usually it is the ignition switch.
In that link you can bypass Passlock if you do not want to put in a new ignition switch.
They list the 2 cheap parts needed, no soldiering necessary.

Already ordered it, the 1 dollar parts + 20 dollars delivery to CA

I just wish it was easier for you to get it scanned for codes using a tech II scanner, then you would know that is or isn't the issue.[/QUOTE]

Can you suggest the model, which one do you prefer?

Thanks for your help!

Passlock disables the injectors from pulsing, I am pretty sure you should still hear the fuel pump come on and prime, and there should be fuel pressure.
I have not seen it 1st hand, but some say it also disables fuel pump, but from what I have read, and when I had an issue with a slight older Park Ave it just stopped the injectors from pulsing.

The Tech II you will have to get a shop to do it, they are very expensive...
Will try to help more when I get off work..

Thanks!