OEM catalytic replacement
 

Recently I purchased a 1998 olds 88. Unfortunaly it requires some work. I replaced the main run of fuel lines that were swelling and/or leaking. I dropped the gas tank last night to access a leaking line there. After the gas fumes have been contained I will have to replace the oem catalytic converter which has rust holes. I know I should just replace the entire rusted system but I am trying to keep costs down. I bought an oem style converter and the front has a plate with 4 bolt holes to connect to the short front pipe (which nobody seems to have a listing for.)

Most importantly. Is the front plate of the cat welded on or bolted on? Can I grind off the rusted nubs and remove it?

Of the 3 fuel lines feed, return, and vapor; how many are pressureized? All 3 don't require high pressure line?

Thanks in advance,
Jon - green dragon - soon to be on the road

if the cat doesnt have a plate just hold it up and cut the old one where the new one starts.

feed and return are pressure and evap isnt that much.but if you use rubber line for it it wont last long under the car in the crap conditions

I have a 2001 Bonneville and its CAT went bad. I bought a exact fit OEM replacement for around $200. Decided to have a discount muffler shop install it. When they put it on the lift, stated it would be to hard to install bolt on style due to rust.They offered to install a aftermarket CAT, parts and labor for $100. I went with the aftermarket. It worked well, passed emissions the next day.

Lesson learned, for the CAT for our vehicles, the aftermarket replacement was much less expensive than the OEM style, may install easier and works flawlessly.