Oil Idiot Light (fixed)
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Oil Idiot Light (fixed)
Hi all,
Just bought a 95 Cutlass Supreme 4 dr with the 3.1 in it...right after i got it i had the oil changed; levels are where they should be. Once the engine is warm the oil light comes on when stopped with your foot on the brake, put it into neutral or park and it goes off, bring rpm up over 1100 and it goes off. Do you think i have a problem with the pressure sensor or is it more? Dont really know anything about the history on this car relating to routine maint. I drove the car for 3 days before actually buying it...of course this didnt start happening until after paying for it...hope its not a serious problem.
Thnx in adavace for you time and help.
Jim
Just bought a 95 Cutlass Supreme 4 dr with the 3.1 in it...right after i got it i had the oil changed; levels are where they should be. Once the engine is warm the oil light comes on when stopped with your foot on the brake, put it into neutral or park and it goes off, bring rpm up over 1100 and it goes off. Do you think i have a problem with the pressure sensor or is it more? Dont really know anything about the history on this car relating to routine maint. I drove the car for 3 days before actually buying it...of course this didnt start happening until after paying for it...hope its not a serious problem.
Thnx in adavace for you time and help.
Jim
#2
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What kind of oil/filter did you replace with? Both can play a part in pressure.
The best suggestion beyond questioning the filter/oil that I'd have would be to get a manual pressure gauge on the motor to confirm what is actually happening.
The best suggestion beyond questioning the filter/oil that I'd have would be to get a manual pressure gauge on the motor to confirm what is actually happening.
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Sounds like low oil pressure to me, does this happen after the engine has warmed up?.
I'd get it checked out with an accurate guage screwed in where the sensor goes, if the oil pressure is ok when cold and drops when warm that points to worn bearings,
It may be as simple as a bad sensor switch though - British Fords were notorious for this in the '70s.
Get it checked anyway, if it'* bad news you still need to know so you can plan what to do.
I'd get it checked out with an accurate guage screwed in where the sensor goes, if the oil pressure is ok when cold and drops when warm that points to worn bearings,
It may be as simple as a bad sensor switch though - British Fords were notorious for this in the '70s.
Get it checked anyway, if it'* bad news you still need to know so you can plan what to do.
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does this happen after the engine has warmed up?
Thnx to both of you for taking the time to reply...i'll post my results.
Jim
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If the loss of oil pressure is real, and it drops to the point of turning on the light the engine will start to make noise. Ticking, groaning, knocking. If your not hearing these noises then it could be a bad sender.
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Picked up new switch; procedural question
Went to the parts house and it was only $8 for a new switch, so I went ahead and got it and some thread sealant and then was unable to swap it out because I didn't have a wrench or deep socket large enough. So I'll pick one up on my way into work this morning. This is what auto zone'* "Repair Guide" says I need to do:
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If the vehicle is equipped with a gauge package (large sensor assembly) and does not have and oil cooler, drain the engine oil, then remove the oil filter.
Detach the sensor electrical connector.
Remove the sensor.
I can see it from the topside; looks like i can get to it. Do I really need to drain the oil and all?
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
If the vehicle is equipped with a gauge package (large sensor assembly) and does not have and oil cooler, drain the engine oil, then remove the oil filter.
Detach the sensor electrical connector.
Remove the sensor.
I can see it from the topside; looks like i can get to it. Do I really need to drain the oil and all?
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No need to drain the oil. It will dribble a bit, but nothing major. The threads should have sealant on them. No need to add pipe tape. Seeing it and getting to it are two very different things. You can see it from many different angles, but actually turning it is another story.
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I just got home from work; I also went ahead and spent the few extra dollars and bought the special socket. Did you get yours in? Any suggestions that might help me out?
Dan, you sound like a man talking from experience...You give me good news that I dont have to drain the oil and then rain on my parade with the other info...lol
Thnx again guys!!
We'll see how long it takes for the engine to cool down, might do it tonite.
Dan, you sound like a man talking from experience...You give me good news that I dont have to drain the oil and then rain on my parade with the other info...lol
Thnx again guys!!
We'll see how long it takes for the engine to cool down, might do it tonite.