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aurora engine swap
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my next project is my 96 aurora back in comission. i have a good very very well taken care of engine. i will be changing the valve cover, cross over, and oil pan gasket. i have a question, the engine has been sitting about a two years now witch one of years it has had no oil in it. how do i help the bearings when start up comes around ? obviusly ill prime as good as possiable.
here are some pics how it came Attachment 18698 Attachment 18699 Attachment 18700 how clean it is Attachment 18701 Attachment 18702 thanks |
I would be inclined to crank it over with no spark plugs in it, and no fuel, until the oil pressure comes up. This will run the oil pump, and get all the turny bits oiled with minimal impact. I would also think some assembly lube, but I don't think you plan on tearing the engine apart.
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Exceptionally interested in this thread. I love northstar V8s.
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take the oil pan off along with the valve covers and oil the crap out of em! (crank/rockers ect ect)
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yea ill try to get everything possiable with some assembly lube and crank it over.
jon i love northstars too. |
well i cant seem to remove the pully from the end of the cam, put a three jaw pully puller on it and it just started warping the pully. its made out of plastic so i dont want to break it. anybody have another sugestion ?
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well i couldnt get my pics to up load. but this project has been put on hold due to my aunt coming to me wanting to rebuild her 82 vw rabbit. she offerd me a $1000 labor and her buy parts so i acepted.
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I think RJ's advice is best. Looks pretty clean. Either the internals are in good enough shape that getting everything oiled up before you hit it with compression and fire will do the trick, or they are not. Any oxidation or corrosion that might have occured isn't going to be helped with the extra work.
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a grand in labor is nice
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i poped off the oil pan when it was on the stand, everything seemed to fine, no oxidation or anything
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Originally Posted by Jonpro03
(Post 1513141)
Exceptionally interested in this thread. I love northstar V8s.
Subscribed! |
Early as in pre 2001 very much so but usually after suffering from overheating. Other than the overheating/headbolt snapping/head warpages they see average engine life. Northstar technology addressed alot of the issues associated with all aluminum engines as they went along so the later models hold up better but still not overheating resilient. One other downside is they use a steel liner in the bore and all the valve parts are coated for tighter clearances, so rebuilding isn't really a good option. If you have a good one, keep it cool and lubricated, no problems.
Another bad idea was the limp home mode that allowed opposing cylinders to fire, then pump air. Although this was done to help owners with the known overheating problem, it usually sealed the engine with a death warrant if it was activated. Most engines are trash after being allowed to run in this mode. |
Originally Posted by GXP Venom
(Post 1514902)
Early as in pre 2001 very much so but usually after suffering from overheating. Other than the overheating/headbolt snapping/head warpages they see average engine life. Northstar technology addressed alot of the issues associated with all aluminum engines as they went along so the later models hold up better but still not overheating resilient. One other downside is they use a steel liner in the bore and all the valve parts are coated for tighter clearances, so rebuilding isn't really a good option. If you have a good one, keep it cool and lubricated, no problems.
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usually the heads wont warp/ pull bolts if not overheated, its that the cooling system for them is not effecien t enough for them in my opnion, usually the water pump will start leaking alittle and thats enough by it self to overheat a n*, once you over heat it it's done for. mine went i estimate 200,000+ miles on it. (miles were cut ).
this project is starting again tomorrow, but while moving it from the garage today it wasmissing pretty bad and since the engine is already toast i reved it in park at like 4500 for 10 secs, then boom. my mom was on the porch and saw it, she said she saw flames shoot out of the mufflers with a mouse house laying on fire behind the car lol but engine will not turn over now, cheacked oil it got gas, water , some oil all mixed up , so pretty sure she seized. |
Originally Posted by GXP Venom
(Post 1514902)
Another bad idea was the limp home mode that allowed opposing cylinders to fire, then pump air. Although this was done to help owners with the known overheating problem, it usually sealed the engine with a death warrant if it was activated. Most engines are trash after being allowed to run in this mode.
only works well on newer motors? :lol: |
im with venom on this one, every one ive heard of died shortly after
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Ok so now I'm curious, does this all apply to the 4.6 in 2003? My aunt just paid $8000 for an '03 Deville with 30K on the odometer, and grandpa isn't too thrilled because he is worried about the repair bills when it starts to get older...
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silversurfer on 2001+ northstars it's pretty uncommon to have headgasket failure, from the three years on a northstar forum ive heard of one 2001+ have pulled heads.but the cam sensors are known to go out. tell him not to worry lol
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I think most of the problem is he is a die-hard Ford fan...he was mad she went from a Taurus to a Deville...and a nice one too...only thing it didn't have was a sunroof...Good to hear it should be a good car for her....
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didnt get to really work on it today,cleaning the garage was a bigger task than expected, i did get it pulled in tho ready for tomorrow
Attachment 18086 |
also thinking of swaping some L37 northstar cams in, their the same cams that shelby used in their version of the aurora v8. also some 4.6 exhaust manifolds and a warm airintake, trying to make alittle more power. just need a tune after all that
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so guys i got a question, whats the best way to remove old head gasket material from the the block and heads ? there alluminum.
thanks |
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