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IF you have 1 ohm 10 /w resister in place, dis-connect the csty fuse see what you get!
Sneak preview of whats behind it: http://www.flickr.com/photos/1813031...n/photostream/ |
Should be normal since I already found the circuit/fuse that was causing the draw. I actually have to get a couple more resistors. Fried 2 already doing the testing. It was actually hot. I'm hoping it is just a relay which makes sense for the amount of draw.
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As I said, put the fuses back. Set up a battery amp draw and start pulling relays one at a time. When it drops, you found it. Remember that having the door open will have a light on, and that is a draw.
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Happen to have the schematics for where the relays are? Specifically, door locks/switch, horn, trunk release, power antenna
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The high power relays should be under the hood on the fire wall. Cars have them in different places. Can be under the passenger side under the glove box, or I think there may be some under the rear seat on newer cars. I believe I mentioned the power antenna relay, that is in the trunk on the antenna. Start with that one.
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O.K. I don't have a resistor handy now since they both fried so what do I need to set my multimeter to just check without the resistor. Same procedure just check between ground post and ground cable?
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This should guide you threw it. https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/amp-draw-test-293647/
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Depending on the meter you have, you will have to probly move 1 of the plugs to the AMP's DC port. Then set meter to DCAMPS. I would not do this if the meter is not fused.
Removing the ctsy fuse takes the power antenna relay out of circut with key out of ignition. That circut is HOT at all times with the fuse in place Removing the radio fuse takes the power antenna out of circut with the key in ON or ACC. |
O.K. well I tried using my multimeter across the positive post and connector and I couldn't get no reading on 200m or any amps. I switched to volts and it would read. Some reason wasn't getting nothing so I was like i'll just hook my buzzer into the fuse port under the hood and check the relays that way. Well I start to check the ones under the hood and they have those green locks through the back so it is gonna be hard as heck to do. I have an idea to go ahead and do the relay for power antenna in trunk first figuring it will be easier to get to. I finally get to it and as soon as I pull it apart...................WALA!!!!!!!! the buzzer quit!! So is this as simple as getting a new relay???? I surely damn appreciate all the help!!!
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Should be able to put a new relay in. I just left mine out.
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