The LIM should be foot 11 lb ft, and the UIM 89 lb in, which is about 7.4 lb ft, just how tight did you tighten the LIM and UIM bolts?

Maybe about 10 or 11 ft/lb. Hadn't touched the UIM yet. Got cold and to dark

Then you should be fine with the LIM since they call for 11 ft lb.

Be careful not to over-tighten the UIM, if you have to hand tighten them, and snug them a little.

I know you already got the LIM back on, but here are little pics showing the torque sequence for the UIM and LIM.

Also, I torqued in 3 stages, it takes longer but I like to be safer than sorry, you can torque them in one stage if you must, just be sure to follow the torque sequence.

The LIM is only 7.4, the UIM is 11. I also had the same MAF housing issue you did William earlier this month. I cleaned the sensor; car would run, then die, it took me 4 hours and many bowls of tobacco to figure it out. I keep the little piece of ***** in my tool box as a reminder to myself. The LIM is all pretty and re-bolted in. If this wasn't an emergency repair, and I hadn't undertaken a project which killed my dremel literally a week ago, I'd have attempted to port the LIM, after reading your thread. Ah well, when I have to do this again, I'll port them then. Hopefully it will be when I choose to do it.

If the LIM was torqued to 7.4 lb ft then it was under torqued, my all data manual calls for 11 ft lb for the LIM, and for the UIM it calls for 89 in lb, which equates to 7.4 lb ft.

That MAF issue was a pain, it was so hard to diagnose I had to send it to a mechanic, because I had tested all that I could, and still could not get it to run, the mechanic replaced my fuel pump, even though pressure was barely down at all, he found the injectors were not pulsing, but he could not determine why, I really don't think he knew what he was doing, when I fixed it and told him the issue he seemed shocked.
That MAF issue is also what got me searching for what could be the issue, and that caused me to stumble on a thread about the intake manifold issue, and I am glad now that I did the UIM/LIM before it totally failed, the gaskets pretty much disintegrated when I removed them, and I could see two failing areas on each gasket.
Let me see if I can find some pics of what my gasket, and the UIM looked like when I removed it.


With the porting, all I did was port match each runner to the specs they should have been, and I knocked some of the rough casting off of the inside of the runners, I did not gasket match it though, because I did not want to remove the heads and make sure they were matched with the gasket as well, so I only opened the ports up to what they should have been, because you do not want one side opened up more, or less than the other, of you can encounter too much turbulence, and that you do not want.

I still have pics from the porting if you'd like to see them, it did not turn out bad for my first port matching ever.

Many bowls of tobacco later...almost done.



Old gaskets. The UIM was on its last legs





The LIM gaskets, were dead, and their ghosts hung around to remind coolant where not to go...the coolant didn't listen it seems

Glad you almost have it finished up, those LIM Gaskets were failing around the coolant ports, so it is a good thing your coolant temp sensor broke/shorted out, because it was only a matter of time.
Your LIM Gaskets looked better than mine though, a lot of mine fell apart in my hands as I tried to remove it.

When you put the UIM back on, make sure that breather tube stays in place, also make sure it is not sticking too far up into where the PCV valve will go, as it can cause issues getting the housing over top of the PCV valve if it sticks too far up, of course don't let it go too far down on there, as you do not want to have to remove the UIM if it drops down/detaches from the clips holding it in place.

i doubt they were any worse than normal, thats what mine looked like as well

Hooked everything back up, turned the key. Nothing. Ignition coil didn't even turn, all I got was the solenoid click. Could I have somehow tripped the security system? I don't think so, because the security light had gone out on the dash.The coil was cranking before I undertook this job, could I have bricked the starter even though it was still turning?

Really they didn't look to worse for wear?

make sure you have 12v on the little wire at the starter when some one turns the key, if so measure the 12v on the big wire while someone hits the key if it goes way down either the battery is bad, big cables need cleaned or the starter is shorted. as an extra check you could check the engine by turning the pulley with a big bar and a socket