not quite sure what you mean. but they DO have to be in the right order.
connector should have markings on it. A, B, C.
A is the grey wire and is 5v. in from the PCM.
B is the blue wire and is the signal back to the PCM so it knows where your throttle is.
C goes back to the PCM internal ground.
When it's running good, try wiggling lightly on the connectors at all the sensors.
Did you open the main wire harness I mentioned? I know it's a hassle but I had multiple melted wires over the water pump and the heater hoses.

notWhere the stock one was gray blue black, the one I got was black blue gray.

Did you open the main wire harness I mentioned? I know it's a hassle but I had multiple melted wires over the water pump and the heater hoses.[/QUOTE]

I peeled it back a bit and the wiring seemed to be in good shape. I ultimately ended up running new wires from the firewall to the TPS.

Question though: Do I have to run the ground back to the firewall connection, or can I just run it to the ground behind the alternator?

Also. It you happen to have a wiring diagram/schematic for the 89 Delta 88 Royale Brougham, it would be helpful. I cant seem to find the right one anywhere..

New computer onit's way (hopefully) today. I pulled the last one I put in and returned it as it didnt seem to have much effect, if any, on the run quality. Mayhap I was a bit premature in doing so.

Now ECM and it fired right up. Havent driven yet tho as I tested the TPS voltage and for some reason, as I open the throttle, the voltage goes down? Like a smooth even decent too...

any thoughts?

Turns out the wires on the TPS didn't match correctly at all. Swapped things around and got it wired correctly.

Also changed out the coolant temp sensor.

Increase in performance was negligible.

Could a bad cat be causing all this?

I bet there's still water in something. Now that it idles, I'd let it idle for a long time, like hours, to get everything dry.

I drove it to work today, 20 highway miles each way.

Does this engine have a MAP sensor?

In this weather, underhood temperatures don't get as warm while driving as they do while idling in place, especially with no wind. Bonus points for driving it a while and then letting it sit and idle for a few hours.

itll only idle while it's cold. Once it heats up and gets up to operating temp, the idle drops and it dies.

sorry sorry I Disappeared, I've been sick all weekend. Sinus problems. Anyway I'm not sure if it has an MAP sensor. And by the way the ground for the TPS and goes directly to the computer you can't ground it somewhere else as far as I know. And also keep in mind I am looking at a manual for a 91 Olds Toronado but I think it's identical to yours because we have pretty much the same engine.

Hey, no worries. Thanks for getting back to me. I went ahead and just bit the bullet and rewired all of the sensors that I could access and I'm pretty sure I've hammered most of the kinks out in that department. Currently working on the IAC & Coolant Temperature sensor wiring. I dont know why they routed the harness like they did. Half of it gets pressed up against the block under the power steering pump and another chunk is routed between the EGR and the block. That's just a perfect receipe for baked wires al la flambeau.

Anyway, a little creative relocationing with the harness and I think I'll have this thing about 80% of the way there lol

Question tho. For some reason it seems like it runs better with the O2 sensor unplugged. IIRC, thats a major symptom of a collapsed Cat, right?