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hopefully it keeps running good.
But if it acts up again I have something you should check.
I have virtually the same engine as you.91 Olds Toronado. a few years ago I had problems that were different from yours but also very intermittent like yours. my car would just die. and then wouldn't start until it sat for about half an hour. anyway after banging my head against a wall for over 6 months trying to find the problem. I started to tear into the wiring and here'* what I found. (see pics) this wiring goes from the firewall at the right fender, across and over the heater hoses, then under the alternator to the ignition module, crank sensor, and cam sensor. It was completely wrapped in that plastic corrugated sleeve, and taped inside that! but from sitting on the engine right on top of the waterpump and heater hoses, they somehow melted. repaired them and problem fixed.
just thought I'd throw this out there. especially since your problem is so intermittant.
good luck.
the 3800v6 won't run without a crank sensor signal, but it wouldn't hurt for you to check it and make sure it isn't loose and that the connector is clean. it could cause an intermittent. those slots in those types of connectors can also not have a tight fit around the pins of the connector.
just some other things I was thinking of.
All right newest update. Drove fine for a couple days. Then it started up of the same old Krapp. I can get it to drive if I feather the throttle from the line and then just barely give any gas to get to speed. Sputters and shakes like it'* misfiring when i hit throttle.
Codes 21, 22 and 44
Through something really strange is going on. I'm getting 5v to the TPS, consistantly, but the output is, at most 1.9v. I've tried 3 different TPS units and it'* always the same. I even went as far as to take them into my shop, hook them up to my banchtop power supply and at 5v I get the same readings.
ok, since it purrs like a kitten at times, that makes me think it'* not a bad part but a bad connection somewhere, short to ground somewhere or short to batt. voltage. Though parts CAN be intermittent, especially temperature related.
Did you check your wiring?
Did you check your connectors?
If so you might want to check readings with a multimeter at the PCM (ECM). You need a back probe for this. it plugs into you multimeter and has a very thin needle like pin on the other end that you can push into the back of a connector.
Here are the troubleshooting charts for those codes in my GM manual. I hope they help. if you need any other diagrams or schematics, let me know.
ok, since it purrs like a kitten at times, that makes me think it'* not a bad part but a bad connection somewhere, short to ground somewhere or short to batt. voltage. Though parts CAN be intermittent, especially temperature related.
Did you check your wiring?
Did you check your connectors?
I ran new black, blue and gray wires from the sensor to the firewall today and put new connectors on the TPS and IAC last week. The MAF connector tested good with the DMM.
Something just popped in my head tho. The wires on the new TPS connector were in a different order then the OEM one. That wouldn't make a difference though, right? Just match color to color and it should be good, right?
