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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
(Post 1638680)
Ouch, my experience has been: Don't batch wash these older engines (like spray all clean all etc. especially with pressure). Water gets into everything.
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Originally Posted by OldsManiac1990
(Post 1638702)
I
new plan: check out your TB. If your screw was missing... how much you wanna bet someone was playing with it and didnt put it back together right or wore the shaft down and now it cant meter air. i would look at an identical junkyard car if you can. i wish i pulled the TB on my cousins 88 lesabre when i had the chance, i would give it to you. i can show you pics of mine???? show me your engine bay?
Originally Posted by OldsManiac1990
(Post 1638703)
Did you specifically get the ground under the ICM? can you give us pics of each quadrant of engine and the big important things like your pcv valve, sensors, firewall relays, battery connection, vac lines, tb, grounds, etc. egr valve
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At the moment t this is the only pic of the engine bay I've got. Not sure itll be much help
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...f48185fdbe.jpg the |
my 91 Olds Toronado had a high idle and it turned out to be a bad connector at the TPS. I also found the IAC and MAF connectors looking bad. replaced the TPS connector and it fixed my problem, then did the others.
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Originally Posted by TommyB
(Post 1638715)
my 91 Olds Toronado had a high idle and it turned out to be a bad connector at the TPS. I also found the IAC and MAF connectors looking bad. replaced the TPS connector and it fixed my problem, then did the others.
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5th (I think) pic is of the screw I was talking about.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...e40f289db6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...2a274e214d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...ef5bf24e43.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...2986ef20e4.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...6e59004a9c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...0315a47829.jpg |
Alright y'all, after installing the new Idle Air Control valve it runs a million times better. Still having a little surging issue and rough idle, but I can almost guarantee that's because I (like an idiot) forgot to make sure the TPS was lined up with my marks after I pulled the TB apart. So now ita throwing codes 22 and 34, which means it's saying the throttle isnt closed all the way.
Now on to another issue. There are two steel lines below the throttle body. I have come to believe that these are coolant bypass lines. One goes from the block to the TB, the other goes from the TB to the intake. Well, the one that goes from the TB to the intake was seized up in the TB, and snapped the tip off inside the TB. How much of an issue would it cause if I tapped threads into the intake, screwed in a nipple fitting, and just did a straight connection between the two? Or could I just cap them both off and be done with it? |
The coolant passage is intended to go to the throttle body to prevent throttle body icing. Some have bypassed it on other gens, and I have never heard of any issues come of it. I wouldn't hesitate to bypass it unless I was going to be facing harsh winter conditions.
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UPDATE: So I fixed the leak and drove it to work today. Ran fine the whole way there. 7 hours later I try and start it up and it's back to the same old s%#t again. Hard start. Fouled the plugs. Cleaned them. Got it running. KO'd a ¼ mile down the road. Killed the battery trying to start it. Towed it home.
SOS! |
Originally Posted by rjolly87
(Post 1638739)
The coolant passage is intended to go to the throttle body to prevent throttle body icing. Some have bypassed it on other gens, and I have never heard of any issues come of it. I wouldn't hesitate to bypass it unless I was going to be facing harsh winter conditions.
Awesome. That's what I was assuming, as I've done things like that on older vehicles. Believe it or not this is actually the newest vehicle I've ever owned. God, how I miss the good old days of naturally aspirated engines. Spark air and fuel is all you need. No sensors. No computers double checking your work... |
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