No one had a dang torque wrench low enough for me to do the deed. Looks like I'll have to order one from craftsman.

Have you read Jr's3800 Techinfo article?

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

You should consider a reduced diameter stovepipe to provide an insulating air gap between the hot EGR pipe and your new plastic upper. This is not as good as a sleeve and a gap, but it is way better than using the stock 3/4" pipe from a '96. If you are handy, I can send you an .875" OD sleeve for $5 to install yourself in your new Dorman. The procedure is described here:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=33565

A new Dorman upper should come with a .510" aluminum pipe with a .624" (~5/8") shoulder for use in the 99-up LIMs. But, if you have access to a vise and a couple of pieces of aluminum scrap, I can also send you a stainless steel ring for $5 that you can press onto the bottom of the Little Dorman pipe that will allow you to use it in your '96 LIM. If your LIM was changed after 99, you may have the 5/8" bore and be able to use the Dorman pipe as is.

If you want to do the ring thing, you will need to save the 3/4" stovepipe to use for driving the modified pipe down into the hole in the LIM. If your old stovepipe is stuck fast, slip a close fitting socket inside the pipe, then take a bite with your vise-grips and twist and wiggle it out. The socket will prevent the pipe from crushing way out of shape.

I also have all stainless 5/8" diameter stovepipes with 3/4" shoulders for 95-99 LIMs, but if you are buying the new Dorman with the little pipe, I would recommend the ring press deal to maximize the gap. Should be around .125" with that little pipe.

That little air gap will make the upper last a lot longer. Add a sleeve and it will be practically invincible.

I appreciate the thought , but 70k with my driving is almost 10 more years. By that time I hope to have a newer car Additionally, I'll have bob work his magic on this core and ship to my buddy who is waiting for it. I double checked the date on my uim, 10/12/95 with 144,ooo on the Odo. I've got beleive the problem must have been repaired before we got the car 3 years ago.

The torque wrench came in and its on sale this week..LOL I saved $10

Thanks again!
Tim

I'm curious. Why not just block of the egr?

No expert on this, but it is my understanding that EGR keeps the valves from burning. 92s were EGR-less, and had valve problems. If your car came with EGR, you probably do not want to disable it. Others have had problems when doing so.

With special tools like a torque wrench, you can usually borrow them from Auto Zone, for a deposit, but you get that money back of course when you return the tools.

I guess you do not need the T.W. now, assuming you are done with this job, but for future repairs that you need special tools, see what they have to say.

Thats what I was hoping but when I went to AZ they only had a torque wrench that went down to 30ft-lbs. In fact none of theparts stores or Sears Hardware had one that would do inch-lbs or low Newtons. I ordered a Craftsman and it came in in one day and was on sale for $66.oo

I don't mind spending money on something I need anyways. I already have a decent 3/8 30-250 ft-lbs and a big honking 1/2inch one. Might was well complete the set...LOL
My half inch socket set, bought years ago, is in 1/32 steps increments. I haven't seen anything comparable since. I'm glad I spent the $$$ then, tools are expensive now.

"You need ft/lbs for the LIM, in/lbs for the upper "

Now I am a bit confused. My 92 has "Intake Manifold to Cyl Head (Lower) as 88 in-lbs (about 7.3 lb-ft) and "Intake Manifold, upper to lower" as 22 lb-ft.

Frankly 88 in-lbs seems way too low. What is the reason ?

becasue the upper intakes are plastic and DO crack when over torqued. (been there done that)