So my sister in law has a 97 Ford Explorer with the Eddie Bauer trim. Ford decided that it would be fun to put in some electronics to tell the driver when the headlights blow out. So to do that they route the juice for the headlights through this "Lamp Outage Module". Well just to let FORD know, when the CRAP they put in the car from CHINA breaks..the headlights quit working altogether. She hasnt had Low beams in months!@

Take a look at the pics..i am gonna try to solder the broken point for her..but it will probably over heat and break the solder points again..cause its cheap CRAP...
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Hope I can fix it for her..i can guarantee that this is either a dealer or junk yard part...either way too much money for an unnecessary accessory...

Hate to break it to you, but if you tear into your Bonnie, you will find the occasional Made In China sticker...you'll also find a TON of Made In Taiwan and Made In Japan stickers.

I agree in principle. I wish everyone used more US stuff.
I also agree that Ford'* wiring and electronics can't touch GMs for quality. Ford went CHEAP on wiring. That'* why they have that annoying habit of bursting into flames...

Hey, I have lots of Quality products that were made in China, Taiwan, ect..what flames my butt is this cheap stuff that breaks. If i didnt know how to spot a bad solder point, the car would be at the shop and some electrical guy would be charging her a fortune. I did a quick search online, and there are almost as many posts for this on their forum as there are for UIM/LIM on ours LOL

Try cleaning it with alcohol, looks like just a bit of oxidation...

Theres plenty of crap that breaks made in the USA as well.

That joint has clearly fractured. The two on either side of it need attention as well. They should all be desoldered with some copper desoldering braid, then resoldered.

Surface oxidation won't affect the integrity of an otherwise solid connection. Cleaning it only improves appearance.

Really? Oh well, I guess I don't have enough experience with electronics to make that assumption anyways... Now when my EE classes start, that'll be another story...

No big deal. Some are pretty difficult to spot. Years of working on circuit boards has helped to train my eye a little (I worked in the electronics field prior to my current career).

The picture below shows the fine line starting around the base of the other two connections. Eventually, these will completely fracture and break away as well. This will often be caused either by long term vibration, the connection heating and cooling due to high current through that particular circuit or both. It may also have been from an initially poor connection during assembly.

The alcohol tip is actually a good one for electronics that have been dunked. It displaces water and dissolves minerals that can accumulate when water evaporates.
What makes it work well with recently dunked electronics is that after it displaces the water, it evaporates much faster, without leaving behind mineral build-up.

BTW, ddalder, do you prefer braid, or a desoldering gun? I personally prefer the gun. It seems to clean the contact deeper inside the lead-hole. EDIT. It also seems to limit the amount of heat transfered to the component because of the speed of the process.

Both actually. If I have a true desoldering station available they are great for cleaning out the holes (I don't own one simply because of the cost of good ones). I'd always touch up the pad afterwards with braid to clean off anything not removed by the gun. Then, finish off with flux remover or alcohol after resoldering.