3100 LIM gaskets, anyone done them?
 

My mom and my friend both need the LIM gaskets done on their 3100's. Has anyone done them before? Or know of a good place with information about the process? Or have a fsm that includes a 3100 motor. thanks

(one is a 95 and the other is a 00)

what kinda cars are they

shouldn't really matter but 95 GA and 00 century.

i have done them. And they are nowhere near as easy as the 3800, there is ALOT more work involved, and alot of bitching will be included also. :lol:

oops, sorry man, i thought i had a haynes manual on it, but i only have one for a 2.8L MPFI V6, i thought it was for the 3100 too. Sorry about that.

willing to expand? give some insight?

http://60degreev6.com/

helpful to me, I did them on my 99 Malibu. I much prefer the 3800 to work on in retrospect. I put 60k on my repair and got rid of the car. I did use the GM gaskets. I also pulled the heads and had them checked for cracks. In hindsight, I probably just would have done a compression check instead of pulling them

I also unbolted and removed the fuel rail, had a hard time getting the fittings to seal up after that. Shoulda just left it floating in there.

Use the RTV only at the corners where intersecting gaskets meet.

Had to SLIGHTLY file the locating pins on the LIM gaskets to get them fit snug into the heads, they wouldnt seal against the intake ports till I did this.

Hope some of this helps, that site was helpful to me also.

Well. there is alot of disassembly involved, such as removing the upper plenum, TB, EGR valve, EGR Tube, fuel rail in which the fuel lines are routed through the TB cable bracket and are hard to get out, then the LIM can be removed, be careful as alot of the vacuum lines easily break.

Ok I've got them from a Haynes manual. I will type them. Just give me a second.

John, a guy like you doesnt have a scanner to just send them on ? :lol:

Removal:

1. Relieve fuel pressure.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable.

3. Remove plenum, fuel rail and injectors. When disconnecting fuel line fittings, be prepared to catch fuel with a rag and cap fittings to prevent contamination.

4. Remove serpentine belt and drain cooling system.

5. Remove alternator and loosen the bracket.

6. Unbolt the power steering pump and set it aside without disconnecting the lines.

7. Disconnect coolant tubes/hoses as necessary.

8. Label and disconnect any remaining fuel and vacuum lines,

9. Remove rocker arm covers/valve covers.

10. Remove the manifold mounting bolts and separate the manifold from the engine. Don't pry between the manifold and heads, as damage to the soft aluminum gasket sealing surfaces may result. If installing a new manifold, transfer all fittings and sensors to the new manifold.

11. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, rotate the rocker arms out of the way and remove the pushrods that go through the manifold gasket.

Installation:

Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, block and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket removal solvents in aerosol cans are available at most auto parts stores and may be helpful when removing old gasket material thats stuck to the heads and manifold (since the manifold is made of aluminum, agressive scraping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container.

12. Lift the old gasket off. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's old sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the manifold is installed, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any gasket material that falls into the intake ports or into the lifter valley.

13. Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, if necessary, then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from the holes. WARNING: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes when using compressed air!

14. Apply a 3/16-inch (5 mm) bead of RTV sealant or equivalent to the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads.

15. Install the intake manifold gasket.

16. Install the pushrods and rocker arms

17. Carefully lower the manifold into place and install the mounting bolts nuts finger tight.

18. Tighten the mounting bolts/nuts in three steps, working from the center out, in a criss cross pattern, until they're all at 115 in-lbs.

19. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

20. Change the oil and filter and refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Now that is pretty much word for word out of the Haynes manual. Good luck.

Well...truth is, I can't find my scanner :shock: I will try to find it. But that should be good enough for now.

wow, thanks! That step 11 is the only one that has me worried. Do rocker arms just unbolt like that??

I'm not sure, but I don't think a Hanes manual would lead you wrong. I found my scanner, would you like me to scan the pages on just so you have a little bit more peace of mind?

here yah go, my scanner had something really heavy on top of it and now its acting kinda weird so its not the clearest scan its ever done...so heres the best i could do, I can always dig out my other scanner if i need to.

Attachment 56215

CC, Keep in mind that the Pushrods will be diffrent lengths for the Intake and Exahust side IIRC.... So keep them in order at the very least...

Be very careful with the rocker arm bolts as I have seen the bosses/Helicoils get striped out in th head... I forget weather they were bosses or simply used a helicoil...

There is work involved in this but its not Hella bad... worse than a 3800, yes...

At this point I don't think there is an upgraded gasket kit for the 3100/3400 engines, but I weill tell you to check with the dealership... If they do not have an upgraded set then the Fel _ Pros may be the way to go for you...

While you are doing these gaskets, and the kit will hopefully include the oil Pump drive shaft O Ring, you will want to make sure you replace that as this is usually the cause of oil leaks with these engines...

Let us know if there is anything else you need to know

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I appreciate all the info.

I do know you have to keep the pushrods in order. Yes they are different lengths.

oil pump drive shaft ring...where does that leak the oil to?? the GA is losing oil fairly fast, I dont remember where but I am curious as to where that o-ring lets it leak.

the more info the better

I can't get a picture, But if you look under the throttlebody, yes between all of those lines( coolant ) you will see a little plug on top of the Block...

I'll explain a little better... A long time ago when GM kicked the HEI distributor to the curb for the GM FWD cars and went to the DIS... There no real changes to the engines design... The distributor dissappeared, but they had to retain the oil pump drive shaft, so hence the little plug on the top of the block... This plug will have the little retainer just like the old distributor had that keeps the plug/oil pump drive shaft in place... Once you remove the plug( may take some force to pull it out ) you'll notice that the O-Ring will either have breaks in it and or be as hard as a rock.... This is a very common oil leak on the 60* V6 chevy engines... This ranges from the 2.8,3.1, 3100 M, 3100 J, 3400 E ... I am half tempted to say the 3500 may have this as well... The 3900 is supposed to be a redesign..

I am going to hazzard a guess and say that the GA has a good bit more for miles on it than does the buick... The GA should have had green coolant from the factory... Keep it that way...

The Buick will have Dex... If anything when you get the work done flush it and use some prestone longlife or the like...

These gaskets were the major downfall of these engines... Most last a He** of a long time as long as this issue is caught in time.. Althought I am not a huge fan of the 60* I have totall respect for them as they are known to last as long as any of our 3800's...

I have rambled a bit much, But I hope that will give you an idea of location, as well as what the oil leak will most likely be...

If you have any more questions... We are here for ya ;)

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I appreciate your response. I do have a pretty good idea on where the plug is. I'll have to convey that to my friend and have him look there.

You guess about miles was a little off :lol: The 95 grand am only has about 5k less than the 00 Buick. Both being around 70k.

Yes the GA has the green stuff and will stay that way. I didn't get a chance to flush my moms coolant when I was home last but it is on the list of shit to do when I get home for x-mas.

I like how you call your info rambling...probably some of the most informative rambling that I have ever heard :lol:

I'll ask more as I get questions

Just a couple of things. Use a good quality tungsten carbide scraper to clean the sealing surfaces for the gaskets. Don't worry about discolorations as long as the surface is flat. Do NOT use a drill or an air tool with 3M or anyone else's abrasive gasket removers, that includes rubber bristle brushes that are embedded with abrasive, rolocs with gasket removing discs, etc. These make the parts look great, but they can actually damage the sealing surface by creating low spots. Worse, abrasive particles get into the oiling system where they cause premature bearing failure in a matter of months.

The second thing is that to chase the threads you should purchase a thread chaser of the right diameter and pitch instead of a tap. Some thread profiles in the engine can be damaged using a regular tap.

Alright, three things. I like to use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker on the LIM bolts to make sure they don't vibrate loose.

Last, if you don't have compressed air, you can fill a portable tank and carry it to the job to blow out the bolt holes.

does anyone have all the torque specs for the UIM, LIM, rockers, TB, and anything else that goes along with this.

cake there very easy just more time consuming

2000 Buick Century

Intake Manifold Replacement Upper
Removal Procedure

Important

This engine uses a sequential multiport fuel injection system. Connect the injector wiring harness connectors to their appropriate fuel injector or exhaust emissions and engine performance may be seriously affected.

1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct.
4. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
5. Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.
6. Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from the throttle body.
7. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the throttle body.
* Throttle position (TP) sensor
* Idle air control (IAC) valve
8. Disconnect the (left) front spark plug wires.
9. Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips.
* Camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness
* Left spark plug wire harness
* Engine wiring harness
10. Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body.
11. Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid and the vacuum canister solenoid.

# Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and upper intake manifold.
# Remove the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket.

# Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness.
# Disconnect the vacuum hose connections from the upper intake manifold.

* Vacuum booster hose
* Automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose
* Heater and air conditioning vacuum source hose
* Fuel pressure regulator

# Remove the generator brace.
# Remove the generator bracket.
# Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.
Remove the right upper intake manifold bolts and studs.
# Remove the left upper intake manifold bolts.
# Remove the upper intake manifold.
# Remove the upper intake manifold gasket.
# Remove the throttle body.
# Clean the seal surfaces on the manifold with degreaser.


Intake Manifold Replacement Lower
Removal Procedure

Important

This engine uses a sequential multiport fuel injection system. Injector wiring harness connectors must be connected to their appropriate fuel injector or exhaust emissions and engine performance may be seriously affected. For the correct injector wiring harness connector-to-fuel injector connection procedure, refer to Engine Electrical.

1. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
2. Remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to Intake Manifold Replacement .
3. Remove the left valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement .
4. Remove the right valve rocker arm cover. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement .
Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) wiring harness
# Disconnect and remove the fuel injector and manifold air pressure (MAP) wiring harness.
# Remove the fuel pipe clip bolt.
# Remove the fuel pipe clip.
Disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the fuel injector rail.
Disconnect the fuel return pipe from the fuel injector rail.
Remove the fuel injector rail.
Remove the power steering pump from the front engine cover and reposition
# Disconnect the heater inlet pipe with heater hose from the lower intake manifold and reposition.
# Disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the engine.
# Disconnect the thermostat bypass hose from the thermostat bypass pipe and lower intake manifold pipe.
# Remove the lower intake manifold bolts.
# Remove the lower intake manifold.
# Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
# Remove the lower intake manifold gaskets and seals.
# Clean the lower intake manifold gasket and seal surfaces on the cylinder heads and the engine block.
# Clean the gasket and seal surfaces on the lower intake manifold with degreaser.
# Remove all the loose RTV sealer.
# Remove the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
# Remove the water outlet bolts.
# Remove the water outlet.
Remove the thermostat.


Installation Procedure

Install the thermostat.
Install the water outlet.
# Install the water outlet bolts.
Tighten

Tighten the water outlet bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

# Install the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
Tighten

Tighten the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).

Important

All gasket-mating surfaces need to be free of oil, and foreign material. Use GM P/N 12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463) or equivalent to clean surfaces.
# Install the lower intake manifold gaskets.
# With gaskets in place apply a small drop 8-10 mm (0.31-0.39 in) of RTV sealer GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to the 4 corners of intake manifold to block joint (1).
# Connect the 2 small drops with a bead of RTV sealer that is between 8-10 mm (0.31-0.39 in) wide and 3.0-5.0 mm (0.12-0.20 in) thick (2).
# Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods .

(# Install the rocker arm bolt(s).
Tighten

Tighten the rocker arm bolt to 14 N·m (124 lb in) plus 30 degrees.)

Install the lower intake manifold.

Attachment 55923

Important

All lower intake manifold bolts need to be cleaned, free of any foreign material, and reused only if new bolts are unavailable. Use GM P/N 12345382 (Canadian P/N 10953489) or equivalent and apply to the old intake manifold bolt threads.

Important

Manufacturer recommends the center bolts be fully torqued before the diagonal bolts to assure proper seal ability.

Important

Lower intake manifold bolts in location 6 and 7 should be torqued to specification using a crows foot type tool.
# Install the lower intake manifold bolts.
Tighten

1. Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts in sequence to 7 N·m (62 lb in) on the first pass.
2. Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts (1,2,3,4) in sequence to 13 N·m (115 lb in) on the final pass.
3. Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts (5,6,7,8) in sequence to 25 N·m (18 lb ft) on the final pass.
# Connect the thermostat bypass hose to the thermostat bypass pipe and lower intake manifold pipe.
# Connect the radiator inlet hose to the engine.
# Install the heater inlet pipe.
# Install the heater inlet pipe nut.
Tighten

Tighten the heater inlet pipe nut to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Important

Do not press on the fuel pressure regulator valve when installing the fuel injector rail assembly.
# Install the fuel rail assembly.

1. Install the fuel injector O-rings using GM P/N 12345616 (Canadian P/N 993182) or equivalent.
2. Install the injector nozzles into the lower intake manifold injector bores.
3. Press on the injector rail using the palms of both hands until the injectors are fully seated.

# Install the fuel injector bolts.
Tighten

Tighten the fuel injector rail bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Connect the fuel return pipe to the fuel injector rail.
Connect the fuel feed pipe to the fuel injector rail.
# Install the fuel feed and return pipe retaining clip.
# Install the fuel feed and return pipe retaining clip bolt.
Tighten

Tighten the fuel feed and return pipe retaining clip bolt to 8 N·m (71 lb in).
# Install and connect the fuel injector and manifold air pressure (MAP) wiring harness.
# Connect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) wiring harness.
# Install the right (rear) valve rocker arm cover.
# Install the generator.
# Install the left (front) valve rocker arm cover.
# Install the upper intake manifold

Install the throttle body. (Tighten the throttle body retaining nuts and bolts to 28 N·m (21 lb ft).)

# Install the upper intake manifold gasket.
# Install the upper intake manifold.
# Loosely install the left upper intake manifold bolts.
# Loosely install the right upper intake manifold bolts and studs.

Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
# Install the upper intake manifold bolts and studs.
Tighten

Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts and studs to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
# Install the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.
# Install the generator bracket.
# Install the generator brace.
# Connect the vacuum hose connections to the upper intake manifold.

* Vacuum booster hose
* Automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose
* Heater and air conditioning vacuum source hose
* Fuel pressure regulator
# Connect the emission control vacuum harness.
# Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket.
# Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the upper intake manifold.
# Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid and the vacuum canister solenoid.

# Connect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses to the throttle body.
# Connect the wiring harness attachment clips.

* Camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness
* Left spark plug wire harness
* Engine wiring harness

# Connect the left spark plug wires.
# Connect the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body.

* Throttle position (TP) sensor
* Idle air control (IAC) valve

# Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to the throttle body.
Fill the cooling system with engine coolant.
# Install the throttle body air inlet duct.
# Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct.
# Connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct.
# Connect the battery ground (negative) cable.

wow, thanks dick, that will come in handy!