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Rusted Brake fitting removal

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Old 01-16-2013, 10:08 AM
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Default Rusted Brake fitting removal

So today i added 2 compression fittings to my blazer, one worked, the other cause the line to blow further down. I needed to use them because i cant get the fittings out from where they go from hard lines to soft lines.

How would you recommend removing them?

I've tried pb blasting them for the last few weeks, no luck.
I've tired using a small propane torch to heat it up, still no luck.

When i try to turn it the whole plate that holds the two lines together flexes a lot and im afraid i might brake it(really rusted).
Old 01-16-2013, 10:20 AM
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Use a pair of vise grips to hold the plate. Cut the line close to the fitting and use a socket to take the fitting out. Also i dont know about CT. But NY it is illegal to use compression fittings on brake lines. It will not pass inspection if it has them.
Old 01-16-2013, 10:21 AM
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one thing i forgot to say is, its rounded over and I have been trying to do it with vise grips.
Old 01-16-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rjblazer
Use a pair of vise grips to hold the plate. Cut the line close to the fitting and use a socket to take the fitting out. Also i dont know about CT. But NY it is illegal to use compression fittings on brake lines. It will not pass inspection if it has them.
Its not registered and it doesnt leave my driveway so i dont have to worry about inspection.

I forgot to add that they are rounded over and theres no room to hammer on a smaller socket
Old 01-16-2013, 10:59 AM
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Since it not driven on the road i think i would just replace the brake hose. And thread the new line in and ziptie it out of the way. Thats assuming your talking about the front brakes.
Old 01-16-2013, 11:31 AM
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yeah i ended up having the hose and the connecter fall out of the bracket. then i removed the brake hose from where it goes into the caliper. It actually came out, really surprising if you saw how rusted it and everything was.

Thanks for your help!
Old 01-16-2013, 11:44 AM
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Your welcome.
Old 01-16-2013, 04:19 PM
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In the first post of this thread picture number 8 shows PB Blaster being applied to the brake lines between the hard and the soft in preperation for removal. Since you are doing all the lines, keep in mind the nickel-copper pre-cut lines. They work well with the Blazer and much easier to work with than steel lines., along with being much more tolerent to salt. Picture #3 shows the copper-nickel line installed.

https://www.gmforum.com/your-ride-gm...ravada-292986/
Old 01-21-2013, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rjblazer
Use a pair of vise grips to hold the plate. Cut the line close to the fitting and use a socket to take the fitting out. Also i dont know about CT. But NY it is illegal to use compression fittings on brake lines. It will not pass inspection if it has them.
In Connecticut, there are no state inspections required (beyond emissions testing) unless you're registering a composite or salvage vehicle, you get stopped for excessive tint, or a cop gives you a written warning that says to get an inspection. But I did come across this.
Originally Posted by http://www.ct.gov/dmv/LIB/dmv/20/29/R-157.pdf
BRAKE LINES - Tubing must be steel and properly attached and supported (at least every 18") and hoses shall not be kinked, twisted, or frayed. Hoses must not be under tension during full right and full left-hand turn, or during full compression or full extension of suspension. Automotive stainless steel tubing and braided hoses are acceptable but compression fitting will not be allowed.
Plus, if you're in an accident and an insurance adjuster spots compression fittings on your brake line, I'd bet money that you might be deemed at fault in the accident.

If you can find a compression fitting rated for brake line pressure (up to 2,000 psi if you stomp on the pedal, I read), use it to limp to the auto parts store so you can buy a real brake line.
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