replacing bad u-joint
 

i have a bad u-joint that im about to replace on 1989 gmc r3500 with a 454 dually and was wondering should i use a greaseable one or none greaseable ?also are there any real good brands i should look for or any to aviod?its the one connected to the rear axle if it helps any

Moog is what we use. As for grease or not it's a personal thing. I use permanent because if you get it greased at a quick lube place they tend to not clean the area around the zerk and they push dirt into the joint along with grease. If you do your own PM go for it.

should i get moog super streagth for my turuck or will moog premium be ok?i just dont know if i need more heavy duty one since it a 1 ton or does that matter

I do not believe there's a real difference between the two. Is there a warranty difference? If so, I go with the longer warranty but this is a manufacturer ploy. They are making the money up on the warranty with the price increase. That being said I go for the added warranty, but then again, that's me.

ok i just dont want to brake one and be in a mess that why i asked about the zerks i thought they may of made it weaker or something

I assume you are going to use sockets to drive them apart. They will both be the same as far as how hard they are to remove and install. If you do much of this work it would be good to get a tool like this.

i meant people say that the ones with zerks will break easier while driving

. . . and sometimes they pump so much grease in there that they push the seals off of the cups.

Unless your truck is lifted and has bad driveline angles . . . or you plan on yanking a bulldozer out of a river while you have 4,000 pounds of gravel in the bed, either one will do. It takes a lot of normal work (or a little bit of stupid) to break a universal joint. The big difference between the two is that grease channels are in the center of each axis with no provisions for the grease fitting on the center of the unit. The grease fitting is in the center of one of the cups. Otherwise they're made out of the same forged and heat treated steel. The only disadvantage to the Super Strength is if you plan on your yokes and u-joints impacting rocks and curbs and etc. then you'd have a greater chance of knocking the cap-mounted grease fitting off.

​​​​​​​​​​​​​Technically they do if they're in the journal cross, but again: Are you intending to park a Smart Car in the bed then go about yanking really hard on one of those giant redwoods over in California so you can take one home? Maybe have a 20,000 pound gooseneck hitched up while pulling a semi out of soft sand?

Even in this:
. . . the universal joints are probably feeling more pain from the sudden unloading of the rear axle (and subsequent increase of angle) than from delivering power when the rear tires are on the ground. There's no weight in the bed to increase traction and angle change severity.

Personally, I would go with the Super Strength just because I want to go do them again as far in the future as possible, and in the meantime I'll try not to whack the rear universal and drive shaft and yoke on anything.

okay also i was wondering is there a torque spec for the straps i need to use or do i just tighten them down and there be good?ill attach a pic of what im talking about in case im calling them by the wrong name
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.gmf...76d6fd1ef2.jpg
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Good question, I don't have that torque spec in my head. I'm sure my manual has it but it's five degrees outside and I don't want to go out there. I just tighten it down tight, but not Methesulah tight. The straps hold the joint in, but they don't directly manage the torque being presented from the drive shaft.