Tags- S10, Sonoma, Bravada, Jimmy, Blazer, Astro, 4.3L pickup
My Sons S10 engine is dying about once a week. It will typically start up after 2 or 3 minutes of cranking. It will also have the same symptom once a week when trying to cold start.

So far I have replaced the:
Fuel pump
MAF
Wires, Tplugs, distributor cap, rotor
Ignition switch
All parts have been Ac/Delco or DELPHI

When engine is running, at seems to have an extremely tiny miss. Note that I replaced the LIM gasket recently and had to pull the distributor to do this. Note that after the LIM gasket replacement I have been getting a P0440 (evaporation ) error.

I have been driving the truck to see if I could have it fail for me. After a week, it finally died today. Doing 10 miles an hour, about to turn into a fast food restaurant it died on a slight incline with wheels turned to the right.

Some of my thoughts was it might be fuel injection pressure, so I bought (not yet installed) the DELPHI #FJ10565 SCPI to MFI Conversion kit (which includes a fuel injector pressure regulator). In addition I have bought a new EGR and a new crankshaft position sensor (none of these have yet been installed).

Wanted to seek some thoughts from forum members as to what they think may be causing the engine to die and not start. It has not started from sitting overnight and also dies while driving slow. Although I am going to replace all the parts purchased, i would like to pinpoint the exact problem before the shotgun approach, as the problem is a bad but only happens once a week.

my gp was doing that when the crankshaft pos sensor was going out, the evap seems separate. doesnt seem like ign module because its not heat related. it doesnt sound like fuel because those problems generally the car will run bad before shutting off not just turn off like a switch.

If the crank position sensor is going bad but still functional at times, the vehicle may start normally but then fail to start on a different occasion. In some cases, the vehicle may start and run fine, but then shut down without warning while driving.

2 posts pointing towards the crank position sensor. It will be replaced shortly. Thank Gents, will update the results...

Replaced the crankshaft position sensor this morning. The only tool required is a 8mm socket/wrench, and a 14mm socket/wrench or screwdriver to remove the skid plate(ZR2) or oild filter protector(non ZR2 models).

Takes less than 15 minutes. Remove skid plate. The sensor is on the front left side of the bottom of the block. You see it and replace it from underneath. Sticks right out. Make sure you lube the o-ring before inserting the replacement sensor.

Truck has not died, but only ran it an hour. It will take a week or more of driving to confirm this solved the issue.

On a side note, FSM states the sensore needs to be recalibrated by a tech-II type device. I unplugged the battery for ten minutes, as I do not have a tech-II device noe know how to use one.

Technically, installing a new crank shaft position sensor requires a "case learn" which can only be done with a Tech II scanner, but most people (myself included) don't bother and don't experience problems as a result.