Hey,

So, long story short, the CV boot got a sliced by a sawzall while doing a brake job on the g/f'* car...

The car is a 1998 Malibu, and has a very similar suspension to a bonneville, so I figured someone one here could hook me up with a quick quick how to.

From what I have gathered, I just have to remove the two bolts (lower strut mount??) and drop the control arm down. Then slide the shaft out the back side of the wheel bearing. Am I on the right track?

If you could let me know what tools I will need and a quick how to that would be SWEET!

Thanks,
Logan

Hi Logan...

I'd leave those bolts in place. If you mess with them, you need an alignment.

Pop the balljoint and swing the strut back to remove the axle. BTW changing the axle may be a little more and well worth not fighting a boot. Although they also make a quick boot thing that you can put over your torn boot. No axle removal is needed.

Yeah, trying to save a little coin here. Since the car has been on block since before the incident, I know the joint is ok, so I think I'll just do the boot.

Maybe I'm in over my head here? Are you talking about remove the cotter pin and castle nut on the bottom of the control arm? Then the control arm will drop and the strut/steering knuckle will be able to be swung to the rear?

If you use the repair boot, it'* reach in and clamp on.

The boot itself you would need to do the cotter pin, ball joint, axle nut, pull axle out of trans and wheel bearing to then put on a bench and get super greasy. Just like you described yup.

Axle come out with a good tug? Or a slide hammer?

Axle and fluid.. usually you have to "pop" them out. It requires a light push from behind. Don't tug or the joint will come apart.

how do you push from behind?

Like said before replacing the whole axle can have you alot of headache down the road cause when a CV joint fails automobila nova. But since it was cut and no dirt could be in it you can put a boot over it. But you should really replace the whole axle now. I've done axles like it should be my job ha. Once you get the one end out of the hub as described by the others you need to pull the axle out. It will come out with a good tug or two. Try to pull it as straight out as possible. When pulling it out you want to pull it out by the joint housing and not by the shaft in front of the CV joint because this can damage the CV joint. (unless you are not using the axle coming out then no holds bar it'* a core now cover it in syrup if you don't like the guys at your local car part store). Have a pan ready under the Trans, some if any fluid will drip out. once it'* out it'* out. Putting the new one in. Coat the entering shaft with some trans fluid to clean it and help it slide in and not damaging the bearing seal. putting it in as straight as possible will help it slide right in. Pushing it in all the way might be a pop but it should go all the way in. Try pushing it in by the housing and not the shaft. once it'* in all the way it'* in and move on to putting the other end in the hub. Button it up and you installed a new axle. Just remember don't force anything. Any of this stuff should be too difficult so if you find yourself jumping on a pry bar step back and look at the whole situation. Any more questions don't be afraid to ask. Oh yeah tools needed a big mother f*ing socket to take the hub nut they can tell you at the part store. off also cotter pins to replace any you take out.
P.*. umm why were you using a Sawzall for a brake job?

Usually I use a prybar from behind the CV cup. Be careful what you use to pry on, axle seals bend easy.

Well, had to take off the caliper bracket off to get the rotor off. Caliper bracket bolt was rounded and rusted...so father-in-law used a sawzall lol