Time for brakes - suggestions?
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Time for brakes - suggestions?
Well, it'* time for a brake job on the Impala. I'm considering getting brand new calipers and mounting brackets.
What brands have you guys had good luck with? Rock Auto offers A1-Cardone, Centric, and Raybestos. Of course there'* AC Delco too, for a premium.
Also open to suggestions on rotors. I've used R1 Concepts in the past, both the E-Line and the Premium versions. Both sets warped within 15,000 miles. I've heard good things about the Centrics. I'm not against smooth rotors, but I do love the looks and feel of drilled/slotted rotors. I would REALLY like to find a set that actually stays black around the perimeter of the rotor and the middle hub part. The R1 e-lines rusted quickly. The Premiums lasted longer, but still rusted after awhile. These northern winters with the salt and brine solution on the roads are very hard on our cars it seems.
I'm also trying to find braided steel lines for all 4 corners, but not having much luck there.
I would like to find new caliper bracket mounting bolts, but am not seeing them on Rock Auto. I know the service manual calls for new bolts each time. I've re-used the OEM bolts in the past with a dab of blue locktite with good luck, but do to my torque wrench slipping when I was adjusting my parking brake, I may have rounded off one of the bolts on the rear driver side. I'm going to have fun getting THAT one off.
Loud
What brands have you guys had good luck with? Rock Auto offers A1-Cardone, Centric, and Raybestos. Of course there'* AC Delco too, for a premium.
Also open to suggestions on rotors. I've used R1 Concepts in the past, both the E-Line and the Premium versions. Both sets warped within 15,000 miles. I've heard good things about the Centrics. I'm not against smooth rotors, but I do love the looks and feel of drilled/slotted rotors. I would REALLY like to find a set that actually stays black around the perimeter of the rotor and the middle hub part. The R1 e-lines rusted quickly. The Premiums lasted longer, but still rusted after awhile. These northern winters with the salt and brine solution on the roads are very hard on our cars it seems.
I'm also trying to find braided steel lines for all 4 corners, but not having much luck there.
I would like to find new caliper bracket mounting bolts, but am not seeing them on Rock Auto. I know the service manual calls for new bolts each time. I've re-used the OEM bolts in the past with a dab of blue locktite with good luck, but do to my torque wrench slipping when I was adjusting my parking brake, I may have rounded off one of the bolts on the rear driver side. I'm going to have fun getting THAT one off.
Loud
#2
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You must be doing some stupid hard braking if you're warping rotors within 15k of driving.
I have the Eline smooth rotors on the Bonne and Eline slotted on the truck. Truck has about 10k on them, and Bonne has about 12k. Neither are warped, and the pads are amazing still. This is with Atlanta style driving too. So you know, you're cruising down the Interstate at 80 mph or so and all of a sudden you have to slam on your brakes because there'* a crash on the opposite travel lane.
You get my point though. I don't know how you're warping rotors that fast, or at all really, but I'm certain it'* not the brakes fault.
I have the Eline smooth rotors on the Bonne and Eline slotted on the truck. Truck has about 10k on them, and Bonne has about 12k. Neither are warped, and the pads are amazing still. This is with Atlanta style driving too. So you know, you're cruising down the Interstate at 80 mph or so and all of a sudden you have to slam on your brakes because there'* a crash on the opposite travel lane.
You get my point though. I don't know how you're warping rotors that fast, or at all really, but I'm certain it'* not the brakes fault.
#3
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most of the calipers and rotors are raw metal so painting them with high temp paint should be better for the rust
the imps and monte have alot of rear bias, make sure you replace both front and back at the same time and be sure the brake pads can mave free. clean and grease the caliper sliders make sure all that moves back good
the imps and monte have alot of rear bias, make sure you replace both front and back at the same time and be sure the brake pads can mave free. clean and grease the caliper sliders make sure all that moves back good
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You must be doing some stupid hard braking if you're warping rotors within 15k of driving.
I have the Eline smooth rotors on the Bonne and Eline slotted on the truck. Truck has about 10k on them, and Bonne has about 12k. Neither are warped, and the pads are amazing still. This is with Atlanta style driving too. So you know, you're cruising down the Interstate at 80 mph or so and all of a sudden you have to slam on your brakes because there'* a crash on the opposite travel lane.
You get my point though. I don't know how you're warping rotors that fast, or at all really, but I'm certain it'* not the brakes fault.
I have the Eline smooth rotors on the Bonne and Eline slotted on the truck. Truck has about 10k on them, and Bonne has about 12k. Neither are warped, and the pads are amazing still. This is with Atlanta style driving too. So you know, you're cruising down the Interstate at 80 mph or so and all of a sudden you have to slam on your brakes because there'* a crash on the opposite travel lane.
You get my point though. I don't know how you're warping rotors that fast, or at all really, but I'm certain it'* not the brakes fault.
One set warping I can contribute to a bad inside pad, and if I remember correctly, its the pads shipped with the rotors. The pad material was completely ripped off somehow, and the resulting metal to metal grinding before I could get them changed resulted in warpage.
The other set im not sure about. Somebody said it could have been the guys at the tire place using the impact gun incorrectly and that caused them to warp when they reinstalled my wheels after a rotate and balance.
Loud
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most of the calipers and rotors are raw metal so painting them with high temp paint should be better for the rust
the imps and monte have alot of rear bias, make sure you replace both front and back at the same time and be sure the brake pads can mave free. clean and grease the caliper sliders make sure all that moves back good
the imps and monte have alot of rear bias, make sure you replace both front and back at the same time and be sure the brake pads can mave free. clean and grease the caliper sliders make sure all that moves back good
I can say I really like the duralast gold full ceramic pads from Autozone. They bite really good once bed in and warmed up, and the difference in brake dust from the semi metallics I have used in the past is amazing.
Loud
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