Hi everyone, I just joined. Just bought a '93 SSEi for a song. I'm doing an engine swap in it right now. The previous owner decided to not put oil in it and there was an aftermarket crankcase inspection window that was the result of it. I got another engine for it and am putting new main and rod bearings in it. I need the torque specs for the rods and mains.
Also, I've been going through the car and there are a number of small things that are not working properly. I'll admit I haven't had a chance to look into them because I've been working on swapping the engine, but I figured you may be able to clue me in with some experience taught knowledge... The HUD isn't working, the power seats aren't working, and the power locks aren't working. Doesn't matter what you have selectors switched to, or what switches you are using for the seats and the locks. Can anyone point me in a good direction?

Get the engine in there and working before you start to dink around with the little things, they may be easyer to spot once the vehicle has a power supply.

I recommend picking up at least a Chilton'* manual to help you along...

I understand your thoughts on getting the engine in and running before 'dinking around' with other things. Also, I'm trying to find a Chilton'* but oddly no store in my area has one for the bonne right now. I've ordered the Chilton'* CD ROM and am waiting for it to come in. I was really hoping someone would know the torque specs so I wouldn't have to wait for that.

They'll be scattered on all the different pages for different parts. You're from MN right? That post was exactly the same as the MN club, where are you located many of us in MN have all of the manuals.

Tell us exactly which torque specs you need and we can look them up. Just the rods and mains?

Also, in the course of installing the engine, you'll be reattaching wiring harnesses and such, so some other stuff may come back to life at the same time (especially if parts of the MaxiFuse/Relay Center on the firewall are currently disconnected while the engine is out).

Okay, per the manual, the connecting rods are 20 ft./lbs.+50° and the main bearing caps are 26 ft./lbs.+50°. All threads must be clean and lightly oiled for accurate torquing.

Although the manual didn't say so on that page, they may want you to use new bolts, since that 50° of rotation beyond the torque point is obviously to stretch the bolt a certain amount.

Aside from those two settings you asked about, the manual actually has a page and a half of torque settings for a full engine rebuild, so you might as well get a manual in front of you before doing the whole job anyway; I don't think you're going to want to do this twice. (Might be useful to collect the torque settings on the website if someone hasn't done that already...?)

Thanks for the torque specs. I don't think anything is going to come back to life when I put the new engine in because these things weren't working with the old engine. Unless there was corrosion in some connections that will be scraped partially clean by taking the connections apart and putting them back together. I appreciate the help.

Well, once you're mobile again, get back to us and we'll sort out the electrical stuff.