The engine is fully assembled, ready to be stuffed back into the chassis. When I pulled the engine, I used a chaine attached to each lifting eye on the engine, but because of the angle the chain made, the lifting eyes were bent towards the rocker covers. I don't want this to happen now. So, I want to hook those lifting eyes to a bar or tube, (therefore keeping the chains straight vertical on the eyes) then lift that tube from the center with my engine crane.
Question: How much does the fully assembled engine weigh, and / or what size tube / bar / other would be sufficient, and what size hardware would be sufficient. Thanks. Mike

I have a load leveler, but I don't like to use it, because it takes up too much vertical space, often requiring removal of the hood for clearance. For Bonneville work, I made up my own load leveling bar, as you envisioned. I use .275" chain and 5/16" quick links, or a drop forged 5/16" shackle. For the bar, I use heavy wall (1/8") rectangular bar stock 1" x 2". The bar is drilled at two center locations, and three locations on each end to allow for better balancing of different loads. Three, three-link lengths of chain are attached to the bar with grade 8, 3/8" bolts. The center quick link is larger, stronger and long enough to slip up into the slot of my engine hoist lifting beam, saving a lot of vertical space. I'll see if I can get you a pic.

I'll venture some guesses on weights and say 350-400 lbs for the engine depending on what all is still attached to it; for the tranny, maybe 225 - 250 lbs. Maybe someone has actually weighed these components and will chime in.

I have pulled engine and trans with the setup described above. When buying chain or quick links, you will find a wide range of quality, price and serviceability. There should be a working load listed. For example, my 5/16" shackle is rated at 3/4T, and my 5/16" quick link is rated at 1430 lbs. Although the working load values provide a wide margin of safety compared to the actual breaking strength of the component, it is best not to exceed those values.

I didn't use a load leveler on either engine, and my brackets didn't bend. My motor came out within 5 or 10 degrees of level with the OEM lift brackets for picking.

Let'* see a pic of your chain angles. You're doing something wrong.

When I lifted the engine off the subframe, I had a chain looped through both lift eyes on either side of the engine, then grabbed both loops of that chain with the hook on the lift. It worked fine, but the eyes flexed (better word than bend) toward each other, it would have to somewhat, as I had a triangular figure made with the chain coming off both sides of the engine. Nothing was wrong really, just wasn't lifting perfectly "straight" off each hook. The chain contacted the rocker covers, but that would not have happened if I used a longer chain section.. Mechanically and physically speaking, there was nothing wrong with what I did.. But this time I wanted to use a bar so that the forces on the lifting eyes were straight up and down, plus I could play with the placement of things to get it perfectly level. A little difficult to do with the chain.
That said, I have access to a chunk of .25" wall round tube, 3" OD.. Plenty big enough. So you all think that a 3/8" eye on either end and one in the center would be enough? That'* my question really.. Mike

That'* where you went wrong. With the chain looped through, you create tension between the two lift brackets.

Come off the hoist and Y down independently to each hoist point so the load on the lift brackets is more vertical.

... Certainly making a more acute angle where the chains meet the hoist would make for a more straight-angle lift.. Yes, this is where I went wrong, so to speak.. Heck, could go with 20 foot-chains on each side, that would make for near-straight lift angle, but certainly not too practical!! LOL!! Just thought I might use a bar this time, to keep the boom as low as possible.. During lunch, I looked into buying some hardware to make a leveler, I think I'll just use longer chain, save the money. Thanks.

Here is a picture of my homemade lifting bar:




Hanger detail:



This really does work better than the commercial leveler I purchased. No hood removal needed for Bonneville engine pull or engine with trans pull.

Nice and simple.. might have to do this afterall.. Looks nice. Thanks. Mike

The big, center quick link replaces the lifting eye and hook through the slot on the lifting beam, allowing for a really close ****** on the load. It is less than 9 inches from the bottom of the beam to the lifting link. My commercial leveling bar pigs up about twice that distance.

Nice job Bill. Sure do love those pictures. Makes it easy for anyone else wanting to do that.