Break your lug nuts loose...Jack the car up and put it on jack stands.Put a wheel chock behind the wheel in the corner opposite of the one you have in the air



Then remove your wheel and loosen your floater bolts untill they are all the way unthreaded (Some will be a t35 torx some will be a 10 MM some require the Gm Brake caliper bolt tool.Or an allen wrench!



Then remove your caliper As long as the bolts are all the way out it should come right off..It may be kinda ''stuck'' but it will come off

Then remove the outside pad by prying The tabs away from the caliper while lifting the pad out

Then for the inside pad pull it towards the outside and lift it out


Then you will take a c clamp and put it on the piston of the caliper and compress it untill it is flush with the caliper Be careful as if to much pressure is applied the piston can chip or break


Then push your floater pins/bolts in flush with the caliper

Then install your inside pad by putting the top apendages in the slot of the caliper and push the clip for the pad into the piston

Then place your outer pad on the bottom of the caliper and push it down into iit holes where that Tabs will line up


Then replace your caliper(install reverse direction from how it came out)

it may take some finessing to get it back lined up properly but you can tell by pushing your floater bolts in and out while finessing it to find the threaded hole
Make sure your brake line is straight and not twisted or kinked

then tighten your floater bolts


The caliper may have some play in it but that will tighten up when the brake is applied
And Vwalla your caliper is on and brake pads are changed

Then place your wheel back on and finger thread your lug nuts back on

and then tighten them in the sequential pattern.A 5 lug will make out a star pattern(start at the top) torque the lug nuts to 110 FT LBS

You are then free to lower your car to the ground and pat yourself on the back for a job well done

Make sure before you go driving you pump your brake pedal a few times with the car running before you move to put the caliper back in its final position..Then go for a short drive and confirm all is well!

Well done.

Oh and if this gets to Tech these pics are in one of my albums so they will need to be transferred

The problem is there is a write up in tech info for brakes. And I really don't want more then one write up per topic unless it'* very different.

Oh okay i didnt know there was..

One thing I don't have in there is drum brakes.

Alright..Ill be doing them on bubba soon so ill do one for those

That would be great. I'm not going to change my drum brakes any time soon. The shoes are still in great shape.

Yeah..Ill be redoing the ones on my new rear end...Oh and yeah the one i bought come to find out was 410s ole boy didnt know what he was talkin bout and i didnt check till i got home so i gotta find a new one again lol

One thing I want to add because I just noticed it in a pic. You should always put some sort of a backing (like the old pad) against the caliper piston when compressing it. I use to do it as in the pic until I punched the clamp screw right through the piston. It wasn't a good feeling when I felt it give way.