Power Windows
#1
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Power Windows
Okay this is crazy.... I have a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville and the drivers door controls none will work.... the rear windows wont work.... but if you turn on the interior lights my passenger front door window will work......
Can someone please help me figure out what is wrong with this and how to fix it I would love to have my windows working.... I have checked all fuses and they are all good all wires look good under back seat and in the doors.....
HELP HELP HELP PLEASE
Can someone please help me figure out what is wrong with this and how to fix it I would love to have my windows working.... I have checked all fuses and they are all good all wires look good under back seat and in the doors.....
HELP HELP HELP PLEASE
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
there is a network for the door modules, sounds like the interior light wire is chafed to it somewhere. i dont know where though i guess i would start looking in the loom that goes to the drivers door
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Believe it or not, the problem could be a defective driver door switch (the master control is supposed to override the other doors' switches) or perhaps a bad ground somewhere (since you see a difference with the dome light on).
As far as "chafed to it," I believe he is referring to two wires that have rubbed together enough to wear away part of the insulation, and the two bare wires in that spot are touching, completing an electrical circuit in a way that it shouldn't be.
The "loom" is a bundle of cables that are run through a thin-walled plastic tube that has a split down one side (actually called split-loom tubing). This plastic "hose" helps keep sections of the wiring harness organized and reduces the chance of the wiring being damaged.
If you open your driver door, and look near the hinges, you will see at least one bundle of wires in a rubber boot, these wires pass from under the dashboard through the body into the door, and will contain the wires for all power windows from the master switch, power lock wires, illumination power (if your window switches or door panels have any lights), and feedback from the door latch switch, door speakers, and possibly a few other features if equipped.
Being that they pass through the body to the driver door, and the driver door being the most frequently opened/closed, this bundle of wires flexes all the time. Add to it the exposure to the weather (temperature extremes especially) you run a small risk of wiring rubbing together and wearing away the insulation, or an internal breakage of a wire. In most cases this rubber boot pops in and out of the holes in the sheet metal easily, so it won't be too difficult to inspect the wires; chafed insulation is usually easy to see with decent vision and lighting. You can also see wires that are rubbing that HAVEN'T caused a problem yet, the insulation color will usually be lighter in color where it rubs against something.
If you discover chafed wires, the easiest repair is to wrap each chafed wire with its own individual piece of electrical tape, or using heat-shrink tubing for each individual wire.
As far as "chafed to it," I believe he is referring to two wires that have rubbed together enough to wear away part of the insulation, and the two bare wires in that spot are touching, completing an electrical circuit in a way that it shouldn't be.
The "loom" is a bundle of cables that are run through a thin-walled plastic tube that has a split down one side (actually called split-loom tubing). This plastic "hose" helps keep sections of the wiring harness organized and reduces the chance of the wiring being damaged.
If you open your driver door, and look near the hinges, you will see at least one bundle of wires in a rubber boot, these wires pass from under the dashboard through the body into the door, and will contain the wires for all power windows from the master switch, power lock wires, illumination power (if your window switches or door panels have any lights), and feedback from the door latch switch, door speakers, and possibly a few other features if equipped.
Being that they pass through the body to the driver door, and the driver door being the most frequently opened/closed, this bundle of wires flexes all the time. Add to it the exposure to the weather (temperature extremes especially) you run a small risk of wiring rubbing together and wearing away the insulation, or an internal breakage of a wire. In most cases this rubber boot pops in and out of the holes in the sheet metal easily, so it won't be too difficult to inspect the wires; chafed insulation is usually easy to see with decent vision and lighting. You can also see wires that are rubbing that HAVEN'T caused a problem yet, the insulation color will usually be lighter in color where it rubs against something.
If you discover chafed wires, the easiest repair is to wrap each chafed wire with its own individual piece of electrical tape, or using heat-shrink tubing for each individual wire.
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Blue_eyes (12-17-2013)
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
in addition to what he said the 2000 up h bodies and some w'* ( your car) have a separate "network" like a computer network that the door controls talk to each other on. there have been many accounts on here where problems with this network wire have caused all doors to stop working. trouble is they also have issues with the sunroofs leaking or doors and the wire is run on the floor where the water puddles, that can cause issues too
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Blue_eyes (12-17-2013)
#6
Retired Administrator
True Car Nut
in addition to what he said the 2000 up h bodies and some w'* ( your car) have a separate "network" like a computer network that the door controls talk to each other on. there have been many accounts on here where problems with this network wire have caused all doors to stop working. trouble is they also have issues with the sunroofs leaking or doors and the wire is run on the floor where the water puddles, that can cause issues too
Almost all of the window control issues on 2000-2005 Bonnevilles have been traced back to water sitting under the drivers side carpet, causing corrosion at junction points under the drivers seat,
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Blue_eyes (12-17-2013)
#7
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
yall all are so very helpful I will definitely look under the drivers seat and check there the door does leak and the drivers rear floor stays wet.... hopefully this will be a cheap and easy fix...
#8
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Door leaks are relatively easy and inexpensive to fix. Let us know when you want to tackle that. Does the car have a sunroof?
#9
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#10
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Your doors are what are referred to as a "wet" design. They are not designed to keep water out, but rather to direct water to drain holes at the bottom that are outside the door seal. This is done by a plastic sheet called a watershield that is stuck to the door inner sheet metal with black sticky stuff called butyl. The butyl can get dried out, allowing the watershield to seperate from the sheet metal, allowing water to enter the cabin.
You can buy the butyl in at tube (CRL Bronze 777 Butyl Rubber Sealant | eBay) or a roll (87 93 Mustang Quarter Windows Installation Butyl Coupe Ford New 5 0 302 Fox | eBay). I prefer the roll. If you buy a roll, get the 3/16" or 5/8" diameter, not the flat stuff.
Once you have the butyl, remove the door trim panel, pull the watershield away from the inner door sheet metal, clean up the old butyl, lay a new bead of butyl and stick the watershield back down. Very important to follow the same path as the old butyl with the new. Re-install the door trim panel, and no more leaks. Total cost is whatever the butyl cost you.
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jimmy544 (12-17-2013)
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