mobil 1 life
#1
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mobil 1 life
im considering useing mobil 1 in my bonneville and i was wondering how long can i go between oil changes i asked my boss andhe said he goes 8000 between but he drive alot of freeway, he said for i should change it every 6000. i drive 2.2 miles one way to work everyday and 22 miles one way to school.3 times a week. what are some goods and bad for synthnetic oils?
#2
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Start with 3K, get a UOA and see where you stand.
(Used Oil Analysis)
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...ask=view&id=26
(Used Oil Analysis)
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...ask=view&id=26
#3
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Damemorder, where do you get a used oil analysis? How much of a sample do you need? What does it cost? I've heard of this for aircraft and it seems like a great idea for a new used car. Do they provide any sort of interpretation of the results?
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Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Where do you get a used oil analysis?
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
How much of a sample do you need?
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
What does it cost?
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
I've heard of this for aircraft and it seems like a great idea for a new used car. Do they provide any sort of interpretation of the results?
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gasol...port_expl.html
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/talk_about_oils.html
#5
Well from personal experience I use Mobil 1 in BOTH vehicles. In the Bonneville that hits time before mileage ( 3 months before 5,000 KMS), and in my Malibu which well hits 5,000kms each month. I was following normal oil change procedures which was change oil every 5,000kms ( about 3,000 miles). But at one oil change per month it was getting too expensive. So since i do so much HWY driving I started going every 10,000kms ( approx 6,000 miles), my Owners manual does say I can go 12,000 kms between changes but I am on a routine of oil and rotate tires every 10,000 kms. Makes it easy for me to remember.
Well today I was at one of my clients and checked my oil to see if I had antifreeze in it ( have been suspecting an intake leaks on my Malibu). No antifreeze in the oil, and a staff member happened to be outside and knows me so he came over to see what I broke, hehe.
I have about 5,000 kms on the oil in the car right now. I asked him, "does that look like oil that has 5,000 kms on it?". He said that oil looked like it was almost new. I told him what I used in the car and he was impressed.
The oil was a golden color not black yet.
But in the Bonneville ( it is 14 years old after all) I follow normal oil change procedures which is every 3 months or 5,000kms.
I suggest that you follow the normal schedule. I mean how quickly do you hit 3,000 miles? Is it every month or does it take 2 months to hit it or 3 months??
If you put on 3,000 miles in 2 months then that is pretty good. start with that then keep an eye on the oil, color etc... for a few oil changes anyway to help clean it out. Then maybe you can go every 5,000 miles. But if after 3,000 miles your oil is still looking kinda black then I suggest stick with the 3,000 mile or 3 month schedule.
Well today I was at one of my clients and checked my oil to see if I had antifreeze in it ( have been suspecting an intake leaks on my Malibu). No antifreeze in the oil, and a staff member happened to be outside and knows me so he came over to see what I broke, hehe.
I have about 5,000 kms on the oil in the car right now. I asked him, "does that look like oil that has 5,000 kms on it?". He said that oil looked like it was almost new. I told him what I used in the car and he was impressed.
The oil was a golden color not black yet.
But in the Bonneville ( it is 14 years old after all) I follow normal oil change procedures which is every 3 months or 5,000kms.
I suggest that you follow the normal schedule. I mean how quickly do you hit 3,000 miles? Is it every month or does it take 2 months to hit it or 3 months??
If you put on 3,000 miles in 2 months then that is pretty good. start with that then keep an eye on the oil, color etc... for a few oil changes anyway to help clean it out. Then maybe you can go every 5,000 miles. But if after 3,000 miles your oil is still looking kinda black then I suggest stick with the 3,000 mile or 3 month schedule.
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Originally Posted by opensourceguy
I just drained the oil in my Bonnie, and I think I had 250-300 miles tops, oil was black as night :(.
-justin
-justin
#8
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i have a 2000SSEI, i bought it new and have used MOBIL1 5w/30 sense day one.
have over 95,000 miles on her and i change my oil every 10,000 miles not kms.
i did a UOA at 20,000 and 60,000 miles and the oil was still good for more
but 10,000 is long enough for me.
ROD
have over 95,000 miles on her and i change my oil every 10,000 miles not kms.
i did a UOA at 20,000 and 60,000 miles and the oil was still good for more
but 10,000 is long enough for me.
ROD
#9
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From Blackstone -
"Averages: The universal averages column is the average of all the samples we have analyzed for the particular equipment make and model. The unit/location averages column is your average wear for that particular type of equipment. They are both running averages and change with the number of samples we analyze.
Elements: Elements are quantified in the oil at part per million levels (PPM). This list shows the most common sources of the elements in a gasoline or diesel engine oil.
* Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
* Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
* Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
* Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
* Lead: Bearings.
* Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
* Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, some types of rings.
* Nickel: Trace element in steel.
* Manganese: Trace element, additive in gasoline.
* Silver: Trace element.
* Titanium: Trace element.
* Potassium: Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.
* Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
* Silicon: Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.
* Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.
* Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
* Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
* Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
* Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
* Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Physical properties: Viscosity, flashpoint, % fuel and antifreeze,
% water and insolubles are all measured in gasoline and diesel engine oils. If fuel is present in an oil, the viscosity and flashpoint will often be lower than what was stated in the A Values. Insolubles are solid material that is centrifuged out of the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings."
Here'* a link
http://www.oilguard.com/Other/UnderstandingAnalysis.php
"Averages: The universal averages column is the average of all the samples we have analyzed for the particular equipment make and model. The unit/location averages column is your average wear for that particular type of equipment. They are both running averages and change with the number of samples we analyze.
Elements: Elements are quantified in the oil at part per million levels (PPM). This list shows the most common sources of the elements in a gasoline or diesel engine oil.
* Aluminum: Pistons, bearings, cases (heads & blocks).
* Chromium: Rings, a trace element in steel.
* Iron: Cylinders, rotating shafts, the valve train, and any steel part sharing the oil.
* Copper: Brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil coolers, also an additive in some gasoline engine oils.
* Lead: Bearings.
* Tin: Bearings, bronze parts, piston coatings.
* Molybdenum: Anti-wear additive, some types of rings.
* Nickel: Trace element in steel.
* Manganese: Trace element, additive in gasoline.
* Silver: Trace element.
* Titanium: Trace element.
* Potassium: Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types.
* Boron: Detergent/dispersant additive, antifreeze inhibitors.
* Silicon: Airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets, antifreeze inhibitors.
* Sodium: Antifreeze inhibitors, additive in some gasoline engine oils.
* Calcium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
* Magnesium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
* Phosphorus: Anti-wear additive.
* Zinc: Anti-wear additive.
* Barium: Detergent/dispersant additive.
Physical properties: Viscosity, flashpoint, % fuel and antifreeze,
% water and insolubles are all measured in gasoline and diesel engine oils. If fuel is present in an oil, the viscosity and flashpoint will often be lower than what was stated in the A Values. Insolubles are solid material that is centrifuged out of the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings."
Here'* a link
http://www.oilguard.com/Other/UnderstandingAnalysis.php
#10
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Similiar to Mike, I also drive a Malibu for work 250-300 miles a day. I usually push my Mobil1 changes to every 8-10k. I usually use WIX filters. The Bonnevilles get changed every 11/2 months, I dont go on mileage with them because they are pretty much short trip cars and hardly ever get warmed up anymore. I just use 5w30 supertech or havoline in them. If I ever rebuilt either 3800, they would grow up on Mobil1.
Filter choice is pretty important too...I like WIX
Filter choice is pretty important too...I like WIX