bought new belts for my car today. the guys at napa asked if i had ever put them on this car before.( i havent) he told me if i get into it and decide i dont want to continue, i can bring back the belts no problem. i havent really studied the belts yet. are they that hard to change ?? any tips to make it easier or this guy just yankin my chain ?? he was telling me about having to drop the k-member on a 97 park avenue to change the belts.

On my 95 NA, It was not bad. There is a nut/stud/spacer combo that needs removed. It is toward the front. It is fairly obvious to see. I did it all from the top. I have heard it may be easier going through the wheel well.

The nut comes off, then the stud with a torx head, then (optional) disconnect the cam sensor (may be crank sensor), and the spacer comes right out. The belts are then easily changed...Takes longer to find the tools than doing the job... No jacking up the engine or K-member disassembly!..

The Series 2 SC models are unique in this. The M90 nosedrive is longer than the M62'*, which requires the belt to pass around the mount. It shouldn't be too bad. A good jack and a block of wood. Maybe 15 extra minutes.

Will,
The way I explained above was discussed on BA awhile back, and I was under the impression it worked on the SC Series 2 cars first. I tried it on my NA, and it worked too. Any idea if it would work on SC cars or not? I don't want to spread any misinformation. It was so much easier than getting the floorjack out...

Big difference between the supercharged and non-supercharged engines. The extra belt makes all the difference. I don't have the Series 2, so mine are a snap, but I'm pretty damn sure the SC belt on the Series 2 L67 goes around an engine mount. No way to do it without pulling the mount.

Here was the post from NVSSEi...

I can't say for sure about the 95 or the 98, but my 97 isn't that bad. Jack the car up and remove the right hand splash shield. The lower engine mount attachment is a stud and spacer. You remove the nut - then remove the stud it came off of - then remove the spacer that the stud goes through. To get the spacer out, you may have to unplug the crank sensor. Once the spacer is out, the belts are free to come off /on. Reverse for install. It took me about an hour to figure this out and change the belts. I'll bet I can do it now in 20 minutes
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This was on a 97 SSEi, and another member did it on his '98 SSEi...It also worked on my '95 SSE. On my car it appears removing the mount is the only way, but its not....And I am only trying to help...

Just to verify, the procedure I posted at BA works great for the SSEi. I just changed my belts again to Gatorbacks as I didn't care for the way the "cheap" belts were wearing . As I said, it took an hour to figure this out originally. I put the Gatorbacks on in 15 minutes and this time included jacking up and removing the RF wheel and splash shield. Once you get the spacer-stud-nut figured out, it'* a piece of cake really.