Changed Oil Pan Gasket on my 2003
 

Finally got my Oil Pan gasket changed on my 03 SSEi. These instructions may be for all Series 2 oil pans?.? If not, MOD's can you move it to the 2000+ section.

Its actually a much harder job than what the manual says because of the main engine mount being bolted to the pan. To say the least, this is a stressful job since you are supporting the engine with two jacks and hoping neither one gives way.

Here is a picture of how the Dealership left it:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...yOilPan004.jpg

No, you aren't suppose to use RTV like that to seal it up.

Anyhow, you have to support the engine with two jacks. The front one MUST DO MOST OF THE WORK by using a block and lifting via the A/C bracket. The back jack was just under the transmission to keep the engine from rotating around.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...yOilPan002.jpg

Start by lifting the front jack until it starts to move the engine. Then then pump the back jack to put some lift on the transmission.

Now, loosen the big nut just behind the front tire. If you notice that every bit you unscrew the nut, the engine is coming down, pump up the front and back jacks to relieve the pressure off the mount. Remember, try to get the front jack to do most of the work.

Once the weight is off the bracket, remove the nut you just loosened. Then remove the two bolts connecting the oil pan, and finally, go under the hood and remove the nut holding the bracket to the engine just to the right of the power steering pump.. (You'll have to feel for this). now undo the bracket and shove it back some.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...yOilPan003.jpg

Now, it's all straight forward:

Drain Oil
Remove Oil Filter
Remove the oil level sensor from the side of the oil pan.
Remove the plastic torque converter cover
Finally, remove all the bolts to get the pan out.

When going back together, tighten the oil pan bolts to 125 inch pounds. The big bolt attaching the bracket to behind the front tire is like 59 foot pounds. The only place I used RTV on the engine block was on the front and back where you see the rear main and front main join the main block. I don't have a picture, but just put a thin! layer of RTV at those joints. Remember to clean the oil pan bolts real good, clean/blow out the threads, and clean the gasket mating surface.

Here is where the dealership made a mess of it all:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...yOilPan005.jpg

And finally, the clean oil pan with a new $15 Felpro gasket:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...yOilPan006.jpg

Anyhow, this should give you a rough idea. So far I am not leaking, but will update this or maybe other's can chime in if they have any additions or changes.

Patrick

i don't know if it would really work in a bonneville but a good backup for supporting and engine is a peice of box steel long enough to gross the engine bay, some blocks of wood and a peice of chain.

set the blocks on the frames on either side of the engine bay, set the bar across and attach the chain overtop the bar, attached to the lifting loops, chain it as tight as you can. this should never be used as the only method of support but could be the difference between a dirty pair of shorts and the last day of your life should the supporting jack shift or fail.

This is a good looking write up for the 2000+ crowd. The 95-99 body style with the Series 2 does not incorporate that large motor mount under the front of the pan. Instead they get a stamped steel pan with the windage tray being part of the gasket that involves it's own issue (you must remove the oil pickup tube to remove the pan gasket.

Thanks..

Can someone move this to the 2000+ section then? No sense it being in here.

Yes, and if I remember right, I also had to take off the bell housing dust shield on my 95 to replace mine.

Good write up Ivory03 :thumbup:
Hopefully if mine leaks it will do it under warranty