Anybody have a picture of the area under the washer fluid resivoir? Also, is it possible to eliminate the evap canister without causing drivablity isues?

I dont have a pic but you can put a T fitting onthe EVAP canister and it wont cause problems, I believe that you can also place it right behind the headlight. IF i redo my Intake I will snake the pipe where the EVAP canister sits and tie the canister behind the headlight

Is that your plans?????

Does this work for you? I have moved my horn to the other mounts between the bottle and the fender (Park Ave have 4 horns, we only have 2) so there is more room there now too.

Small bottle

Damn my sh*t wass clean heh...

Large Bottle (what you have) for reference

You mean like this?


I saw a BIG power increase when I switched to this setup after tryiung an Auto Zone rice-pipe. Took a 1/4 second off my ETs just on this change.

yup

Hey thats a pretty kick *** system youve got there! What kind of pipe is that, and is it smooth inside? Is the filter protected from water underneath?

The tube isn't perfectly smooth inside, but it'* 3.5" in diameter, so even if it causes turbulence inside the tube, it'* still gonna flow more air than your engine is ever gonna use. I got the tube from INTENSE, it was around $12 a foot. It'* a wire reinforced rubber hose, so you have to be careful when you are cutting it, or else you pull the wire out of it and screw up the ends. I used a 3" rubber plumbing coupler from Home Depot, and I can't remember the PN for the K&N cone I have on it, but it fits the 3.5" tube and it'* about 6" from top to bottom. For a splash sheild I carved the front half of the EVAP cannister bucket off and set the cone down into it. You COULD get water into the tube, but I think you'd have to drive into the river to do so. I made some brackets from hinge strapping, to hold the cone in place, you can see them in the pics, the shiny pieces either side of the hose where it goes into the EVAP hole.
The IAT is in a hole I drilled into the end of the cone, and I had to extend the wiring for it with 16-guage wire. I think having the IAT where I do may be causing the engine to run too rich though, because it'* reading too cold.
Make sure that you have enough tube to let it arch up a little higher than the washer-fluid bottle or the bends will be too tight and it could pull itself loose.
I located the EVAP right behind the left headlight by riveting a hose clamp to the core support, and I had to re-route one of the rigid plastic lines that runs to it. You'll know which one when you get to that step. I had to run it over the top of another hose, which neccessitated cutting it and rejoining it with a piece of rubber fuel line.

I'll try to get more thorough pics of the setup tomorrow while I'm pulling it out. I'm selling the car, so I want it to be stock when it rolls off our driveway. I can't re-use the pipe so if you want it, pay for shipping and it'* your'*, including the jerry-rig brackets, coupler, and clamps. I'll even include step-by-step pics of the tear-down, and you can reverse-engineer it. The cone is probably shot though.