Well atleast good IMO.
I took my 94 in and had the fuel filter changed, the PCV valve changed, the squeal/chirp in the pulley system was an alternator belt, the fuel pressure was 41 psi, the scan test came back with all good and had 1 old fault code for an EGR valve in memory that they cleared. I also had them install a new power antenna(mine did not retract).

The mechanic said that my Bonnie was the cleanest car like it he has seen. He said for 150,000 miles it was in super shape and drove very strong! I told him about the BCS mod and he did it for me in like 1.5 minutes while we were talking about his brother'* GTP that spins the tires off when it hits second gear!

He told because of the mileage not to get too crazy and mod the motor. He said if I can find a shop that will run dual exhaust to do that and a CAI. He warned me that some modded Hondas come into the shop with CAI'* that suck up water from puddles. I have not heard of anyone complaining of CAI on Bonnies getting water into the throttle body.

I also had the supercharger oil changed. It was about 2oz low they said?
They drained it and refilled it.

I went by the local speed shop called Turbo Connection in Edwardsville IL. They have a newer GTO 6.0 with custom twin turbos mounted under the car behind the front tires and an intercooler mounted under the radiator. From the top the car looks pretty stock except for some piping, but underneath is crazy wild! Totally custom fabricated stuff. The dyno registered 1,050 hp! That is insane! You sure couldn't tell looking at the outside of the car.

We talked about building another 3800 and he said there is a local guy that can work miracles on beefing up the tranny that he uses alot. So, if I find a donor engine cheap enough I might build a higher hp engine. No rush, as my car is a blast to drive and is working great according to the mechanic.

The mechanic also said that there was no problem with KR. I run 93 Octane, fuel injection cleaner, and the car was recently tuned.

I could of saved some money and did most of the stuff myself(except the scan test) but did not have the time and wanted a second opinion anyway. It was cool to hear that the car was in great mechanical shape! Now to go pic it up and see how the throttle response is! The solenoid moved a 1/2" easy! So there should be a little difference accelerating.

I would not worry even a little bit about the mileage of your engine. Some of the faster cars here have more miles then that, are daily driven, and are running stock bottom ends

Thanks for encouraging news crash!

I jinxed myself by writing this post before I got my car. When I left the shop, the mechanic was installing the antenna. When I picked it up, the shop was closed.
The "antilock brake light" was on and the "traction off" light was on.
When I tried to press the button to turn the trac-loc back on nothing happened. The trac-loc is still off.
There was nothing wrong with the brakes when I brought the car is, so I am surprised with the light being on.

I am also concerned that the Trac-loc was turned off. Is that part of the Scan Test or did the mechanic just want to burn some rubber?

I will get things fixed tomorrow. Bummed me out a little when I picked the car up though.
Good thing I have not paid yet. The bill wasn't ready when I left the shop earlier, they usually let me pay later over the phone. They are good guys, I just am frustrated that they did not say anything about the 2 lights.

I drove the car home for tonight and it rocked! No problems driving, just the lights on the dash. I will let you guys know what happens. I hope it is just a relay or a switch.

Could be as simple as a broken / corroded wire going to a wheel hub, or a bad sensor at a wheel bearing.

The traction control can't be turned on or off in our earlier cars when moving. You have to be almost completly to a stop. If it still won't shut the light off, then I would think about a bad wire or sensor. Not a big deal at all. Still well worth your purchase price

Yeah, I am not worried cuz this car is beyond solid! The previous owner took good care of it. I just am not happy with the way the shop left the car. The owner is cool though and will make things right.

I think the trac-loc is the switch. It did this once before but came back on. I would say it is the switch myself if I was to guess. If I new how to remove the switch plate I would of cleaned the contacts and checked the wires. I got to get a manual for that car.

So, did the mechanic need to turn off the Trac-loc for the Scan test? It was the only reason to drive the car.

No matter why it is "off" the mechanic was impressed! That made feel good anyway!

Well, I found out why the anti-lock brake and TCS was disabled.
It seems the mechanic disconnected the right front wheel sensor when replacing the alternator belt. Fixed in less than 5 minutes.

I am glad it wasn't anything really wrong.

Well, turns out it was a wire to the wheel speed sensor like I said, it just wasn't broken or corroded

Glad to hear you got it fixed up

Yeah, am glad too!
I am driving it to Chicago this weekend to see family and friends!!!!

The car did great on the trip to chicago and back!
I got 22 mpg on the HWY!

The only weird thing that happened isthe yellow check engine light came on.
If I stopped the car and shut the motor off, the light went off. It did it 3 times over the 3 days. Today the light was off.

22mpg is HORRIBLE for the hwy. You should be getting 28 minumum.