Water / Methanol Injection
#1
Water / Methanol Injection
So after a few discussions over the years with Willwren, I am exploring this mod.
It should provide a very effective cooling effect, one that could be as good as intercooling.
The only point of injection that makes sense is into a plate sandwiched between the supercharger and the throttle, thus bypassing the MAF sensor but.......
When under vacuum, how do you prevent the water from being sucked into the engine.
You should only want it injected under high pressure during maximum boost conditions in order to atomize it properly but as soon as you let off the throttle and the intake is under vacuum you would require some sort of shut off valve to prevent siphoning.
Bill :?
It should provide a very effective cooling effect, one that could be as good as intercooling.
The only point of injection that makes sense is into a plate sandwiched between the supercharger and the throttle, thus bypassing the MAF sensor but.......
When under vacuum, how do you prevent the water from being sucked into the engine.
You should only want it injected under high pressure during maximum boost conditions in order to atomize it properly but as soon as you let off the throttle and the intake is under vacuum you would require some sort of shut off valve to prevent siphoning.
Bill :?
#2
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Vacuum controlled solonoid shutoff valve. Commonly used.
I inject before the MAF, as colder air is a higher density, thus increasing flow through the MAF that I want the car to be able to read. Most don't do this. I'm going to be playing around with a new TB soon, and porting directly into the base of it or the SC inlet itself.
There are advantages to injecting pre-rotor as well as post-rotor. It'* tough to make a decision, but alot of that depends on the mix you deliver. I'm switching exclusively to a 50/50 methanol water mix.
Most of my mix will evaporate before reaching the cylinders, but the evaporation effect will cool the air immensely in the process.
I'll move this to Forced Induction for you.
I inject before the MAF, as colder air is a higher density, thus increasing flow through the MAF that I want the car to be able to read. Most don't do this. I'm going to be playing around with a new TB soon, and porting directly into the base of it or the SC inlet itself.
There are advantages to injecting pre-rotor as well as post-rotor. It'* tough to make a decision, but alot of that depends on the mix you deliver. I'm switching exclusively to a 50/50 methanol water mix.
Most of my mix will evaporate before reaching the cylinders, but the evaporation effect will cool the air immensely in the process.
I'll move this to Forced Induction for you.
#4
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
There are alot of good systems and components out there, but at a cost. The trick, Paul, is to find the components that the good systems use at a 'normal' price. Sounds like you're onto something along those lines.
I predict much playing and tuning in your future.
I predict much playing and tuning in your future.
#6
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
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There are a few options.
Here are a couple of places to look. You can see how they are dealing with off boost issues and others. Between these and Bill'* you should be able to come up with some ideas if you decide to go home made.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
http://www.usrallyteam.com/wainj.html
Aqua-mist is very nice but very expensive.
Here are a couple of places to look. You can see how they are dealing with off boost issues and others. Between these and Bill'* you should be able to come up with some ideas if you decide to go home made.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
http://www.usrallyteam.com/wainj.html
Aqua-mist is very nice but very expensive.
#7
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
#8
Actually I'm seriously looking into the Boost Cooler.
I've spoken with the engineer who customizes applications and it seems to be ideal for our engines.
The solenoid upgrade is required.
http://www.snowperformance.net/
I've spoken with the engineer who customizes applications and it seems to be ideal for our engines.
The solenoid upgrade is required.
http://www.snowperformance.net/
#10
To allow me to run a smaller pulley and more boost without KR.
Worth it even if it gains 25 hp.
I have read some good posts in Club GP. Some positive, some negative.
The real trick is how it is injected and placement of the nozzle. It'* all in the details.
Worth it even if it gains 25 hp.
I have read some good posts in Club GP. Some positive, some negative.
The real trick is how it is injected and placement of the nozzle. It'* all in the details.