Supercharger leaking?!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,099
Likes: 0
From: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-

I seem to be leaking an odd black fluid. It seems to be coming from the supercharger on the end where the belt is. I don't know if it is supercharger oil or what but it'* making a mess.
Any sugestions/ideas?
Any sugestions/ideas?
Does it REEK? Is it coming from the nosedrive/rotor housing joint? If so, you'll be pulling your SC very soon. VERY soon. No other way to fix it. About 50 bucks in parts, and most of a day your first time. Consider replacing the coupler at the same time.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,099
Likes: 0
From: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-

How do I check the fluid level?
The fluid dosen't exactly reek but it does smell. Eather way it'* prob. time to pull it. What parts am I looking at to buy? What is the coupler? Got instructions on how to do this?
The fluid dosen't exactly reek but it does smell. Eather way it'* prob. time to pull it. What parts am I looking at to buy? What is the coupler? Got instructions on how to do this?
Tearing it down that far is a great opportunity 
Get a TB gasket, SC outlet gasket, red sealer (gasket maker) listed in the 'all boost heads' sticky, and some intake cleaner. 3 or 4 cans. Might want a FI o-ring kit, too. Coupler from ZZP for 30 bucks. Don't forget a couple bottles of oil.
There'* a little plug on the top of the gear housing near your alternator. Use an allen wrench to remove it. Oil should be to bottom thread of the tapped plug hole.
I probably forgot a couple things, but that'* it in a nutshell. When you get closer to doing it, we'll tell you the tricks......like what to do with your hardware, and how to get the stud out of the Alt bracket

Get a TB gasket, SC outlet gasket, red sealer (gasket maker) listed in the 'all boost heads' sticky, and some intake cleaner. 3 or 4 cans. Might want a FI o-ring kit, too. Coupler from ZZP for 30 bucks. Don't forget a couple bottles of oil.
There'* a little plug on the top of the gear housing near your alternator. Use an allen wrench to remove it. Oil should be to bottom thread of the tapped plug hole.
I probably forgot a couple things, but that'* it in a nutshell. When you get closer to doing it, we'll tell you the tricks......like what to do with your hardware, and how to get the stud out of the Alt bracket
Personally, I'd drive it as little as possible. Check your oil level daily in the meantime. If it seems to hold at a particular level, check it every two or three days.
If it goes dry, you'll be out a minimum of $400 for a new nosedrive.
If it goes dry, you'll be out a minimum of $400 for a new nosedrive.
OK, the 92-93 */C tend to leak. Mine has leaked ever since I bought it. If you look near the pulley on the nose cone, there is a buildup of black stuff. Also if you look under the hood pad you will see a */C oil splatter near the nose cone location.
I've found that mine takes about 1/5 bottle or so every 10,000 miles. So I check it every 10,000 miles and keep it full.
The older the */C is, the more important it is to check the oil regularly. If the leak is bad enough you may want to repair it.
I've found that mine takes about 1/5 bottle or so every 10,000 miles. So I check it every 10,000 miles and keep it full.
The older the */C is, the more important it is to check the oil regularly. If the leak is bad enough you may want to repair it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,099
Likes: 0
From: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-

Well, I decided to just take it in first thing tommarow. I'm not going to be home this next week from tues. to sunday so i'd rather just have the shop fix it. PLus they can see if there is anything else wrong. I just really don't want to mess with it.


