1996 bonnie ssei supercharger is rattling please help
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1996 bonnie ssei supercharger is rattling please help
I have a 1996 bonneville ssei it runs great but the supercharger is rattling when alot of boost put through it and at idle. have been to three shops first one said belt tensioner other two say supercharger. pulled the belt off and the sc pulley has alot of play seems like the whole shaft had play . ive read about the coupler but dont know where to have it done or if I could myself. priced out a remaned sc but would like to know if the coupler might be a cheaper more proper fix . what kind of shop should I look for?
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if you have left/right play in the SC and the shaft does NOT pull in and out, then this kit will fix your problem...
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...3800_Induction
If the play is a in and out issue, then a SC rebuild is needed because the nose cone bearing is bad. Willwren will correct me if I am wrong.
My pulley is fine with in and out play but clicks left to right about a centimeter. I am sure a coupling would benefit me.
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...3800_Induction
If the play is a in and out issue, then a SC rebuild is needed because the nose cone bearing is bad. Willwren will correct me if I am wrong.
My pulley is fine with in and out play but clicks left to right about a centimeter. I am sure a coupling would benefit me.
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If it only is rattling at idle, it is most likely your supercharger coupler.
If it does not go away when rev the engine it is most likely the tensioner.
If it does not go away when rev the engine it is most likely the tensioner.
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Moved to Forced Induction. Please read the forum descriptions.
Rotational slop is simply a coupler. Any other axis of slop indicates bearings. You'll need a tube of red gasket maker and oil to complete the work. Torque all fasteners to 20ft/lbs during reassembly.
Rotational slop is simply a coupler. Any other axis of slop indicates bearings. You'll need a tube of red gasket maker and oil to complete the work. Torque all fasteners to 20ft/lbs during reassembly.
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supercharger rattle
im pretty sure the play is just left and right it only does it at idle and when the belt is off the rattle is definately from the supercharger not the tensioner. I was getting ready to order whole new supercharger. so if it only has left to right play its the coupler? and if it has play in and out i should get a whole new supercharger? thanks for all the info I just dont want to spend 600 if I dont have too.
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supercharger again
if it does have in and out play can the bearings in the nose be redone? or is it a whole new sc needed? sorry about all the questions but this seems to be the only place I can get a straight forward answer without a shop seeing money symols fly in front of their eyes
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The bearings can be replaced, but you need access to a hydraulic press, or find a shop that does.
Spokane? (looks like it) Check the western meets section and come down in April. We can do it then. Free room and board, but it may be crowded.
Also check out the WCBF topic in National Meets.
In a nutshell, it'* fairly simple to do the coupler, and not much harder to do the bearings, but you have to have the right tools for the bearings. Coupler only requires basic tools and the right materials.
www.rollingperformance.com has the bearings, coupler, and oil. INTENSE may also sell the bearings, I haven't checked recently. They DO sell the oil, gasket maker, and coupler. I strongly suggest red gasket maker (either GM, loctite, or permatex) rather than standard RTV.
Spokane? (looks like it) Check the western meets section and come down in April. We can do it then. Free room and board, but it may be crowded.
Also check out the WCBF topic in National Meets.
In a nutshell, it'* fairly simple to do the coupler, and not much harder to do the bearings, but you have to have the right tools for the bearings. Coupler only requires basic tools and the right materials.
www.rollingperformance.com has the bearings, coupler, and oil. INTENSE may also sell the bearings, I haven't checked recently. They DO sell the oil, gasket maker, and coupler. I strongly suggest red gasket maker (either GM, loctite, or permatex) rather than standard RTV.
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coupler help
is there anything specific I need to know about taking the nose off and getting the bearings out, that is if I can get a shop with a hydraulic press to put them in? and is there anything else I should do while im at it? also if its running good but rattles and has play in the sc pulley
then the coupler and bearings shou7ld fix this problem right? :?:
then the coupler and bearings shou7ld fix this problem right? :?:
#9
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Unbolt the nosedrive. You might want to siphon the oil out first. A windex or similar pump sprayer works well. Put a rag under the nosedrive before breaking it loose.
The bearings need to be pressed out and pressed in. Make sure your shop is familiar with the assembly order. Print the pic from rollingperformance and take it with you. As you press one bearing in, the other will try to come out. It'* a situation where you need to press the top bearing in while supporting the nosedrive by the 3-pin coupler plate, not the base of the nosedrive, or the inner bearing will try to come out. This is critical or your nosedrive won't fit back on the car.
If you wonder if it'll fix the problem, remember that rotating the pulley back and forth by hand is the coupler.
Up and down/side to side wiggle is bearings, as are in and out.
The bearings need to be pressed out and pressed in. Make sure your shop is familiar with the assembly order. Print the pic from rollingperformance and take it with you. As you press one bearing in, the other will try to come out. It'* a situation where you need to press the top bearing in while supporting the nosedrive by the 3-pin coupler plate, not the base of the nosedrive, or the inner bearing will try to come out. This is critical or your nosedrive won't fit back on the car.
If you wonder if it'll fix the problem, remember that rotating the pulley back and forth by hand is the coupler.
Up and down/side to side wiggle is bearings, as are in and out.
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supercharger help
is there anything else actually in the supercharger that could be causing this problem? I just dont want to replace the coupler and the bearings in the nose and then have to turn around and get a whole new sc. if its just the bearings and coupler I can take that off myself and find a shop to do the pressing and then do coupler and reinstall myself but if its the whole thing I have to pay someone to do it. the car seems to run great the sc could be better its got 166000 on it but seems well maintained. I dont want to ask a shop what would be better because they seem to say whichever will benefit them more. thanks for the advice so far saves me alot of headaches