Nosedrive Seal question
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northern Twin Cities
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nosedrive Seal question
Freddi'* great adventure: (Stick with me, theres a SC question. at the end.. )
About two weeks ago I threw the SC belt off of the 2000 bonne. After inspection, the Ribbed Pulley had given up the ghost. A quick run to Napa, and some backwards wrenching (reverse thread) and I'm up and running.
This morning, I threw the belt again. This time its both of the smooth pulleys. Upon checking BonnevilleClub, I see one is 3.0" and the other is 3.5". So....me being in a mood to do some upgrading (While I'm repairing) I start checking posts.
I ordered my intense 3.4 pulley. Several posts seem to indicate that if I run two 3.5" smooth pulleys, and the 3.4 SC pulley, I'll increase belt wrap, and not require a belt size change. SInce I have to replace pulleys anyways, this seems to be the best route, unless I'm looking at this wrong. Thoughts?
Now to continue the story, and get to the SC question..... I don't have a rattle in the nose right now, but do have some weeping from the front seal. Logic tells me that If I press on the new SC Hub, It'* going to be tougher to replace the seal? right?
Can I service just the seal, without removing the nose drive, before pushing the new hub on?
Recommendations on whether to go for the Nitril or Vitron on a car with about 70k on the clock?
Side notes: Finally got the OK from the missus to start doing more to the bonne. FWI was ordered this weekend during the Intense sale. Pulley was ordered today, after the belt came off. (Hoping to get an answer to this, soon, so that I can add the seal to my order before it ships) PCM will be next, along with anything else intense puts on sale.
FYI: Already have scanned for KR, and will continue to do so after the pulley install.
Thanks in advance,
Freddi
About two weeks ago I threw the SC belt off of the 2000 bonne. After inspection, the Ribbed Pulley had given up the ghost. A quick run to Napa, and some backwards wrenching (reverse thread) and I'm up and running.
This morning, I threw the belt again. This time its both of the smooth pulleys. Upon checking BonnevilleClub, I see one is 3.0" and the other is 3.5". So....me being in a mood to do some upgrading (While I'm repairing) I start checking posts.
I ordered my intense 3.4 pulley. Several posts seem to indicate that if I run two 3.5" smooth pulleys, and the 3.4 SC pulley, I'll increase belt wrap, and not require a belt size change. SInce I have to replace pulleys anyways, this seems to be the best route, unless I'm looking at this wrong. Thoughts?
Now to continue the story, and get to the SC question..... I don't have a rattle in the nose right now, but do have some weeping from the front seal. Logic tells me that If I press on the new SC Hub, It'* going to be tougher to replace the seal? right?
Can I service just the seal, without removing the nose drive, before pushing the new hub on?
Recommendations on whether to go for the Nitril or Vitron on a car with about 70k on the clock?
Side notes: Finally got the OK from the missus to start doing more to the bonne. FWI was ordered this weekend during the Intense sale. Pulley was ordered today, after the belt came off. (Hoping to get an answer to this, soon, so that I can add the seal to my order before it ships) PCM will be next, along with anything else intense puts on sale.
FYI: Already have scanned for KR, and will continue to do so after the pulley install.
Thanks in advance,
Freddi
#2
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
You can change the seal, and it'* a damn good time to do it. I suggest the Nitrile, as it'* softer, and can conform to irregularities and wear on the input shaft quicker than Nitrile can.
You'll have to drill a couple holes CAREFULLY and slowly in the seal, then yank and pry it out. Try very hard not to get debris inside. Clean it up well. Use a solvent. Then install the new seal and retainer.
You'll have to drill a couple holes CAREFULLY and slowly in the seal, then yank and pry it out. Try very hard not to get debris inside. Clean it up well. Use a solvent. Then install the new seal and retainer.
#3
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
I suggest the Nitrile, as it'* softer, and can conform to irregularities and wear on the input shaft quicker than Nitrile can.
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northern Twin Cities
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by willwren
You can change the seal, and it'* a damn good time to do it. I suggest the Nitrile, as it'* softer, and can conform to irregularities and wear on the input shaft quicker than Nitrile can.
You'll have to drill a couple holes CAREFULLY and slowly in the seal, then yank and pry it out. Try very hard not to get debris inside. Clean it up well. Use a solvent. Then install the new seal and retainer.
You'll have to drill a couple holes CAREFULLY and slowly in the seal, then yank and pry it out. Try very hard not to get debris inside. Clean it up well. Use a solvent. Then install the new seal and retainer.
The new seal will just tap in with a socket or other 'device' to make sure it goes in square? What does the retainer look like? Do I reuse, or buy a replacement?
Thanks for the help wren.....it'* SO nice to have resources like this forum.
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Lethbridge, Alberta, _______Canada._______ West Coast Bonneville Fest ___05,06,07 Survivor___
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm assuming he is talking about Viton versus Nitrile which, Viton is a harder seal type, and is only suggested in an applicion in which a new seal surface is available.
Nice.
Is it green and supercharged or green and supercharged.
Also, Viton and Nitrile generally both have garder springs installed in them, the only type generally that doesnt is a true Wiper style seal, which is MUCH harder, and is generally used on shift shafts which move in a back and fourth motion
Nice.
Is it green and supercharged or green and supercharged.
Also, Viton and Nitrile generally both have garder springs installed in them, the only type generally that doesnt is a true Wiper style seal, which is MUCH harder, and is generally used on shift shafts which move in a back and fourth motion
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GunsOfNavarone
General GM Chat
3
11-11-2014 07:41 AM