Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

Replaced snout seal and coupler, stalls quick

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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:51 PM
  #21  
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I know the coupler was good, but I maybe the bearings got messed up when the shaft was pounded out and pounded back in

It'* somewhat hard to tell in the video but it is loud as hell with the hood up
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:55 PM
  #22  
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Bad bearing
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 11:00 PM
  #23  
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Good to finally nail it down, thats what I was thinking from hearing bad wheel bearings

I got a deal on a ZZP rebuilt snout that should be here in a day or 2 so I will swap that out and be done with this so I can move on to putting in some braided brake lines and unvailing a little surprise
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 07:01 AM
  #24  
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Yup bearing. Odd that the shaft was removed to change the coupler and seal. Were any bearings replaced as well?
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 08:54 AM
  #25  
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Nope, the link you gave me to get the parts from said to take out the shaft to change the....bearings, damn I should have just left it in there and changed the coupler oh well an $80 mistake
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #26  
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Bearings don't like being hit. So a press is really needed to remove the shaft and put it back in.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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Depends on how you do it. I've done quite a few bearing changes w/o a press. Used a socket that was the appropriate size to the outter race of the bearing and a extension/hammer to drive them. If the inner race was beaten and not the outter, I could see the bearing having an issue. Using the inner race could potentially flat spot the bearings inside.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 02:44 PM
  #28  
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I hit the very end of the shaft to get it out then the pins where the coupler goes to put it back in

regardless my new snout came today so I will put it on tonight and be done with this thing
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