SC Coupler
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SC Coupler
I'm at the point where I need to change my SC coupler. I have all of the parts necessary to complete the job. I'm a little hesitant to do it only because I don't want to cause any issues after I get it done. My main concern is getting a coolant leak in to the intake manifold or anything else you could imagine.
Is this really a straight forward repair? I don’t mind doing it I’m just a little skidish when it comes to taking stuff off my engine.
Thanks Guys.
Is this really a straight forward repair? I don’t mind doing it I’m just a little skidish when it comes to taking stuff off my engine.
Thanks Guys.
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
i don' think that you would have to worry about causing a coolent leak by changing the coupler... but i havn't done it either so i'm not speaking with expirence, just logic (and its messed up sometimes )
but i wouldn't be to worried, you'll learn a lot by workin on your own cars.
but i wouldn't be to worried, you'll learn a lot by workin on your own cars.
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: In your garage, swipin' da lug nutz
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Drain your cooling system maybe halfway before you do this. You will need to take the */C off of the car to do this at all...one of the shafts us S1 guys get
Aside from the coupler and new oil, you will need a */c to intake gasket and the 2 yellow o-rings (oem gasket does not come with these, felpro does). Good idea to change out your injector o-rings at this time, and your LIM gaskets...saves so much headache and gives you piece of mind.
Aside from the coupler and new oil, you will need a */c to intake gasket and the 2 yellow o-rings (oem gasket does not come with these, felpro does). Good idea to change out your injector o-rings at this time, and your LIM gaskets...saves so much headache and gives you piece of mind.
#4
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
While you are there..pull the throttle body off and clean it as well.
Then you have done everything that should be when you are at this point.
Following the instructions and cleaning surfaces well before reassembly will have you back together and happy in no time.
Then you have done everything that should be when you are at this point.
Following the instructions and cleaning surfaces well before reassembly will have you back together and happy in no time.
#5
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Guys. I just didn't want to mess anything up and have a bigger problem come up and bite me.
I've got all of the gaskets and o-rings and such. The only thing I need is the red gasket material. I guess I need to get that from the dealer or will permatex stuff work?
I've got all of the gaskets and o-rings and such. The only thing I need is the red gasket material. I guess I need to get that from the dealer or will permatex stuff work?
#6
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Get it from the dealer...get the small tube..
It'll be reasonably priced. I've been told SC oil will get through RTV and to tell you honestly..I doubt it would...but I'm not taking the chance.
It'll be reasonably priced. I've been told SC oil will get through RTV and to tell you honestly..I doubt it would...but I'm not taking the chance.
#7
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sedro-Woolley, Washington
Posts: 604
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did this a couple of years ago, it was a piece of cake, here is the step by step I did that should help
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/479367/2
ken
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/479367/2
ken
#8
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if its like mine, the only thing you have to do to change your coupler is move the alternator, and remove the snout. there is no coolant lines in the way either. I think its 10 13mm bolts. and the coupler is a slideon any way. Now i dont know when the M90'* started, but mine was easy, took like 20-30 minutes the first time.
#9
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Originally Posted by Patgt501
if its like mine, the only thing you have to do to change your coupler is move the alternator, and remove the snout. there is no coolant lines in the way either. I think its 10 13mm bolts. and the coupler is a slideon any way. Now i dont know when the M90'* started, but mine was easy, took like 20-30 minutes the first time.