Boost stacking??
 

Hey all, I know this is a newbie question but I am when it comes to superchargers. Can someone explain the term "boost stacking" and how to try to avoid it. Thanks in advance. P.S. This is the first in probably many sc questions. I have already learned lots from reading here already. :thumbup2

Boost stack comes when your forcing more air in then can get out. That causes pressure and then heat, and then that causes knock. Your on a series1 supercharger and those are not as efficient, so best to keep the boost below 10 psi

Danthurs, thanks much, that is good to know. At this point I am looking into water injection. Just looking/researching mind you but am interested in modding. I do have plans but they are in the future. I still have to find another motor or rebuild this one! Thanks again for the quick response. James.

Water/methanol injection is something that requires a horrendous amount of calculations to get the right blend of fuel, water/methanol. You need to also consider that net HP gains versus the additional weight of the pump and water/methanol capacity you need to carry to be efficient.

Injectors and your fuel pump will also need to be re sized to accommodate the changes for efficiency by adding in the water/methanol injection system.

For a HP gain and performance increase concentrate on opening the exhaust, increase linear air flow to your combustion chambers through porting, polishing and rocker ratios/springs, maximizing your supercharger potential by polishing and porting and dropping pulley sizes, decreasing engine run temperatures, tuning, etc.

The problem you have is a series1. Your options are, accept your limited with what you have. Get a new car with a series2 engine, 97+ or do a rebuild the car by replacing the engine and PCM with a series2. You will have a very hard time tuning any engine older the 96

Water/Methanol injection is an old idea, that really didn't pan out for normal cars. And we didn't see any clear, in your face evidence of it doing anything good. Just a "theory". Possibly damaging, considering the spray of a cold solution containing solvents on hot "coated" rotors riding on bearings. Remember our motors aren't in the realm of run a couple passes/teardown/replace.

Thanks Purplehazer, Gxpvenom and Danthurs, from what I have been reading on this forum, very very informative by the way, I am thinking of other options. Two of them are: get this car running good and sell it for a profit and get a newer car or find a series2 complete and do swap. Either of these choices interest. The one I like the most is the swap as the car is in such great shape(added pics of engine compartment in my pics). I have decided that water injection will be the last consideration due to the wear to the rotors and the potential of bearing failure. Thanks for now James.