1993 Keyless entry not working
#1
Senior Member
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1993 Keyless entry not working
I received a new FOB, however I am having the same trouble as the old one, I even swapped the new buttons (old were worn and in bad bad shape) to the new one and the problem persists. The car goes into programming mode just fine, however when a button on either FOB is pressed, nothing happens, it does not acknolodge the signal with another clunk clunk at all.
What are all the components for the Keyless entry? is it just a module under the dash somewhere with an antenna and how do I troubleshoot the system from this point forward?
What are all the components for the Keyless entry? is it just a module under the dash somewhere with an antenna and how do I troubleshoot the system from this point forward?
#3
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
ensure you are doing the programming properly.
I am doing it identical to techinfo. shorting out the upper right and lower left pins, it does go clunk clunk, however it does not go clunk clunk when I push a button on the remotes
#4
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
I bet you are...it is much eaiser than 95 or 97. Sounds like the only issue might be moving fast enough. 10-15 seconds is pretty quick.
Keep trying...I'm sure you'll get it.
Keep trying...I'm sure you'll get it.
#5
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Keep trying...I'm sure you'll get it.
Nope. I have determined another part of the system is defective. Can someon explain the parts required for keyless entry or provide me a link with more information.
I know I need a FSM but do not have one for this car.
#6
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on my Keyless i have to press my button like 2-3 times on teh remopte for it to open the drivers door.....it sucks.....i think that i either need a new fob (whick i have ) or my Reciever in the car is crapping out
#7
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Some of these may not be an issue with your PDL and PW working fine, but check everything anyway:
Fuse 3, Fuse 6, Fuse 4, Reseat the connector on the RAC Module (Remote Accessory Control) just to the right of the PCM on the same bracket. However, SOMETHING must be alive in that sucker. Pin G of your Datalink connector feeds to Bin B of C2 on that RAC, and that obviously causes the car to respond. It'* odd, though. When it goes into programming, it clunks, right? That says it'* capable of commanding the locks. It'* just not accepting your remote.
I'm beginning to suspect a bad remote.
Fuse 3, Fuse 6, Fuse 4, Reseat the connector on the RAC Module (Remote Accessory Control) just to the right of the PCM on the same bracket. However, SOMETHING must be alive in that sucker. Pin G of your Datalink connector feeds to Bin B of C2 on that RAC, and that obviously causes the car to respond. It'* odd, though. When it goes into programming, it clunks, right? That says it'* capable of commanding the locks. It'* just not accepting your remote.
I'm beginning to suspect a bad remote.
#8
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True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by willwren
Some of these may not be an issue with your PDL and PW working fine, but check everything anyway:
Fuse 3, Fuse 6, Fuse 4, Reseat the connector on the RAC Module (Remote Accessory Control) just to the right of the PCM on the same bracket. However, SOMETHING must be alive in that sucker. Pin G of your Datalink connector feeds to Bin B of C2 on that RAC, and that obviously causes the car to respond. It'* odd, though. When it goes into programming, it clunks, right? That says it'* capable of commanding the locks. It'* just not accepting your remote.
I'm beginning to suspect a bad remote.
Fuse 3, Fuse 6, Fuse 4, Reseat the connector on the RAC Module (Remote Accessory Control) just to the right of the PCM on the same bracket. However, SOMETHING must be alive in that sucker. Pin G of your Datalink connector feeds to Bin B of C2 on that RAC, and that obviously causes the car to respond. It'* odd, though. When it goes into programming, it clunks, right? That says it'* capable of commanding the locks. It'* just not accepting your remote.
I'm beginning to suspect a bad remote.
I have 2 remotes that is what is weird. One is BRAND NEW one is the original the car came with.
#10
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Didn't come with one as I recall.
Ok, Hans. I don't think the RAC module is bad, because it goes into programming mode.
Disconnect the harness and check for the following at the connectors:
C1 pin B 12 volts from Fuse 6.
C1 pin G for ground
C2 pin K for ground
Then pull your right front passenger door sill, pull the carpet back, and find the 10-cavity ground bus. Any corrosion?
Ok, Hans. I don't think the RAC module is bad, because it goes into programming mode.
Disconnect the harness and check for the following at the connectors:
C1 pin B 12 volts from Fuse 6.
C1 pin G for ground
C2 pin K for ground
Then pull your right front passenger door sill, pull the carpet back, and find the 10-cavity ground bus. Any corrosion?