I have read some of the threads and I thing I might be having a similar porblem
Here is the low down.
The car will stall while driving and take up to 15 minutes to restart it or I will leave work and the car will sit in the parking lo all day and then no start at all.

I have replaced the
Plugs
plug wires
Crank case sensor
ICM

its starting to get rather expensive.
My mechanic has deleted all the problem codes after replacing the crank case sensor earlier in the week and the ICM later in the week.
any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated

You say it takes ~15 mins to get it restarted, what is the frequency of when it happens

cheeta, what about the key issue, or the other sensor, the uh, cam shaft sensor. I believe there is a crank shaft and a cam shaft sensor. This sounds like aproblem I had once when the car wouil stall or not start. I had the sensor replaced. Can't remember which one though. Could he have the VATS issue?

Does you car crank, or just sit and do nothing when you turn the key to start?

If the car won't turn over at all, then it'* a problem with the Pass Key II security chip (resistor) in the key, not the ignition.

If it cranks but won't fire, I don't know why you would replace the plugs and wires, as they'd only cause a problem when the car was running (unless thay were totally shot, in which case the car would have never started at all). I believe there'* 2 crankshaft position sensers and one camshaft position senser.

The ICM was a good start, make sure both crank sensors were replaced. The car can run on the crank sensors only in a sort of limp mode (it'll start). So I don't think a cam sensor would help you any.

Also, verify that the wiring is good. They tuck those position senser wires up close to a hot motor, one might have broken.

Hope this helps. (And I'm not 100% sure that there'* two crank sensors, I just thought I read that somewhere, I'll check tommrow when I'm at work)

James, I think BlownBuick is right about the sensors

Papa, does the "secuity" light come on whe the car dies?

There is just one Crankshaft Position Sensor. It provides two signals for ignition timing, a 3X and 18X pulse derived from the two interruptor rings on the pulley.

The cam sensor can be unplugged and that will cause the car to have a 1 in 6 chance of starting. However... the stalling is what makes me think the sensors are ok.

Look over the wiring harness for the ICM/Crank/Cam. This is all one harness that attaches to the main engine harness at the front of the engine, to the side of the ICM on teh fuel rail.

Most crank/cam/ICM issues are rubbed or damaged wires on this harness. The FSM'* have replacing the sensors as a last resort as they are tyipcally not bad.

An item to check is ground and power. A loose or corroded battery cable on either positive or negative can cause many crazy issues. Pull both battery cables, and remove the plastic boots...look for corrosion where the cable connector is crimped onto the cable. Pull the cover off the maxifuse relay center on the firewall..look for corrosion at the batery supply cable on top. Also check the connections of both battery cables at the engine block (ground) and starter (pos)

to answer so off the questions

When I try to start the car it revs but it doesn't turn over. like I said before I have already changed the crank case sensor and yes there is only one. When the car does start it runs great just every once in awhile it gets an aditude. I have pumped the gas pedal when it doesn't start and I don't smell any gas. Is that normal? again thanks for all you help

Wll, there you go. I know there was something with 2 in there.

And I would recomend never pumping the gas pedal when starting the car, even if it you've been cranking it for a while. The only thing you should do is floor the car completely if it'* flooded because the computer cuts off fuel while cranking at full throttle.

I would agree with BillBoost37. The wiring is a likely suspect.

Hmm.....do you mean the engine turns over (engine rolls when starter is engaged), but does not fire (engine running, self sustained)? At any rate, follow the instructions given by Boosty with regard to the battery cables & connections as a base line for troubleshooting.