Gas tank level affects "all" gages >dashboard?
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Gas tank level affects "all" gages >dashboard?
I think this is the weirdest problem.
When ever my gas tank is about 50% FULL or more my dash boad gages shut off.
They power on the goes off on all gages.
The only gage that works is my speedometer, tach and speed in my windshield-- HUD.
So when the gas tank becomes 1/2 full or less the gages start coming on intermitently.
The gages that DO NOT WORK are >>>
TEMP, OIL PRESS, COMPASS, ODOMETER, PICTURE OF CAR TO SHOW DOORS OPENED, ETC.....
The dash always lights up orange no matter what - just dont have those gages until it hits 1/2 empty.
Does anyone know what I can start to look at?
I would not think my level of gas could effect the sending unit in the gas tank to trigger ALL my dash gages....
Please help,
Thanks,
Hal
When ever my gas tank is about 50% FULL or more my dash boad gages shut off.
They power on the goes off on all gages.
The only gage that works is my speedometer, tach and speed in my windshield-- HUD.
So when the gas tank becomes 1/2 full or less the gages start coming on intermitently.
The gages that DO NOT WORK are >>>
TEMP, OIL PRESS, COMPASS, ODOMETER, PICTURE OF CAR TO SHOW DOORS OPENED, ETC.....
The dash always lights up orange no matter what - just dont have those gages until it hits 1/2 empty.
Does anyone know what I can start to look at?
I would not think my level of gas could effect the sending unit in the gas tank to trigger ALL my dash gages....
Please help,
Thanks,
Hal
#2
Its probably just a coincidence that it happens then. Remove the cluster and check for corrosion: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=93
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Thanks for the reply.
It is "definately NOT a coincidence that this happens when the tank becomes like exactly 1/2 empty.
It has been like this a long time now.
The gages will "never" work when the tank is any little bit over 1/2 full.
Will not work when 3/4 or 4/4.
When I fill it up all the way I have to wait till I drive about 140 miles for the gages to start to work.
If they start to work and then I fill up the car again they will not work until I get back to that point again.
This is 100% the way it is....all the time.
((((((( I have read the instructions posted here on the boards about how to clean the cluster and it seems like a miserable job))).
I hate to start to get into that if i dont have to.
So if anyone has any ideas --- would me much appreciated.
Thanks ....
It is "definately NOT a coincidence that this happens when the tank becomes like exactly 1/2 empty.
It has been like this a long time now.
The gages will "never" work when the tank is any little bit over 1/2 full.
Will not work when 3/4 or 4/4.
When I fill it up all the way I have to wait till I drive about 140 miles for the gages to start to work.
If they start to work and then I fill up the car again they will not work until I get back to that point again.
This is 100% the way it is....all the time.
((((((( I have read the instructions posted here on the boards about how to clean the cluster and it seems like a miserable job))).
I hate to start to get into that if i dont have to.
So if anyone has any ideas --- would me much appreciated.
Thanks ....
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I agree with these guys. Many times, gauges share ground & source power connections, etc. The gas gauge is pulling more current when it registers full. Corrosion limits the amount of current that can be drawn through those common connectors. So their suggestions are right on.
There is one thing to check, if you are just looking for anything quicker. There are a couple of interior ground points, one behind each kick panel (carpet), down low. You have to take the vertical trim piece off to get the carpet pulled back. Each one uses a sheet metal screw. There is an outside (very OUTSIDE) chance that checking, cleaning and re-securing those might reap an impact; and it won't take but a few minutes. But I'm afraid it most likely is up in the dash, just like they said. Force be with you.
There is one thing to check, if you are just looking for anything quicker. There are a couple of interior ground points, one behind each kick panel (carpet), down low. You have to take the vertical trim piece off to get the carpet pulled back. Each one uses a sheet metal screw. There is an outside (very OUTSIDE) chance that checking, cleaning and re-securing those might reap an impact; and it won't take but a few minutes. But I'm afraid it most likely is up in the dash, just like they said. Force be with you.
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Ok guys,
I will do these 2 things.
I will first clean the grounding contacts near the door panels.
Hopefully that will fix the problem.
If not - I will remove the cluster and then follow the instructions to clean that.
By the way ....how long will it take to clean the cluster and do that cluster job?
I want to make sure the dash is not taken apart in case I have to drive the car and go out. This is my only vehile of transportation now.
Thanks again---
I will do these 2 things.
I will first clean the grounding contacts near the door panels.
Hopefully that will fix the problem.
If not - I will remove the cluster and then follow the instructions to clean that.
By the way ....how long will it take to clean the cluster and do that cluster job?
I want to make sure the dash is not taken apart in case I have to drive the car and go out. This is my only vehile of transportation now.
Thanks again---
#9
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Yes, true.
I have been driving without the cluster for some time now...
but i hate not being able to see my TEMP gage.
If one day my thermostat gets stuck... I will never know it until I am way over the limit.
I would hate to loose an engine.
I JUST HOPE THAT the problem is resloved after I clean the grounding contacts near the door panel on the floor.
I really dont want to do the cluster. It looks like 4-5 hour job - not a 2 hour job.
If it were only a 2 hour job I would pay someone to do it and pay them a hundred dollars.
I read the detailed instructions again today on doing the cluster job and it looks like it would make me pull out my hair.
I have ripped apart dashboards before but this looks like the worst.
So there you have it.
Whoever says it is not so bad - obvioulsy doesnt mind doing 4-6 hour jobs like that.
I personally like the ones that last 1 hour or so.
I am not lazy - I just doing have the time to do things like "cluster cleaning" anymore.
I have about 4 other jobs that are smaller to do on this car in the meanwhile.
I will start with cleaning the floor ground contacts.
Thanks again for the tips...
I have been driving without the cluster for some time now...
but i hate not being able to see my TEMP gage.
If one day my thermostat gets stuck... I will never know it until I am way over the limit.
I would hate to loose an engine.
I JUST HOPE THAT the problem is resloved after I clean the grounding contacts near the door panel on the floor.
I really dont want to do the cluster. It looks like 4-5 hour job - not a 2 hour job.
If it were only a 2 hour job I would pay someone to do it and pay them a hundred dollars.
I read the detailed instructions again today on doing the cluster job and it looks like it would make me pull out my hair.
I have ripped apart dashboards before but this looks like the worst.
So there you have it.
Whoever says it is not so bad - obvioulsy doesnt mind doing 4-6 hour jobs like that.
I personally like the ones that last 1 hour or so.
I am not lazy - I just doing have the time to do things like "cluster cleaning" anymore.
I have about 4 other jobs that are smaller to do on this car in the meanwhile.
I will start with cleaning the floor ground contacts.
Thanks again for the tips...
#10
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It'* not a 4-6 hour job, and it'* FAR easier than the procedure shows.
Once you get in there, you'll realize just how simple and easy it is. It'* very straightforward with no tricks or surprises.
Or you can live with the problem.
Once you get in there, you'll realize just how simple and easy it is. It'* very straightforward with no tricks or surprises.
Or you can live with the problem.