1998 wont crank-possible VATS issue
05-17-2007, 01:49 PM
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1998 wont crank-possible VATS issue
hello all, i am new on here and need some help. i have a 1998 bonnie that all of a sudden will not crank. my security light is flashing, which indicates( if i am reading other post correctly ) that the VATS system is out of whack. i have tested both keys and got values of 6020 and 5970 ohms. i made a resister combo which gave me a value of 5990.
my problem is that when i went looking for the wires to bypass i could not find 2 single white wires leading to a white clip as stated in the many posts that i have read. i can locate a white connector that has 4 wires ( black ,yellow , purple and white). can anyone tell me with a degree of certainty if this is what i am looking for and if so which wires do i need to cut and bypass.
thanks in advance for your help
lawrence
my problem is that when i went looking for the wires to bypass i could not find 2 single white wires leading to a white clip as stated in the many posts that i have read. i can locate a white connector that has 4 wires ( black ,yellow , purple and white). can anyone tell me with a degree of certainty if this is what i am looking for and if so which wires do i need to cut and bypass.
thanks in advance for your help
lawrence
05-17-2007, 01:53 PM
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You won't see both wires. You'll see a single sheath with both wires in it.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=76
Techinfo is your friend.
Ignition switch wire color coding
The basic colors for the bundle coming off the ignition switch under your dash are as follows (from the '93 service manual). Except where noted, all are large-gauge (probably 10-gauge or 12-gauge) wires within the same bundle, emerging from the steering column behind the dashboard, directly below the ignition switch. Some other details are added below for those folks adding alarm systems or remote starters:
RED: (two wires) Main power inputs; your remote starter should tap into these to get its own power supply, and use this input through its own relays to drive the outputs, basically mimicking the role of the ignition switch
BROWN: Accessory output, hot in Accessory or Run positions (i.e. low drain devices; e.g. wipers, radio)
ORANGE: Accessory output, hot in Run position only (i.e. high-drain devices; e.g. power windows)
PINK: Ignition circuits, hot in Run, Bulb Proveout and Start positions (i.e. engine run)
YELLOW: Start circuit, the one that cranks the starter (assuming it'* got permission from the VATS, starter enable relay, etc.)
(Do not confuse the light yellow wire above with the bright yellow air bag wire.)
For VATS-equipped cars, you will also find an orange "wire" which is actually a plastic sleeve containing two thin white wires, going to and from the ignition switch. This is the loop circuit completed when you insert the ignition key; the VATS bypass box you install will tap into this circuit to provide the correct resistance expected by the car (to fool it into thinking the key is in the ignition).
For security-system-equipped cars, you will need to locate the Factory Alarm Shutdown wire, which should be a light-green, approximately 14-gauge wire inside the driver'* (or passenger'*) door at the outside key lock. The remote starter should have a lead which grounds this wire to deactivate the security system when the car is started (or unlocked). A corresponding yellow wire, also attached to the outside key lock, will _lock_ the car if grounded, and arm the factory security system.
Your tach input connection at the coil pack should be to the white wire which is the fifth wire from the _right_ end, when viewing the coil pack from the front of the car.
_________________
The basic colors for the bundle coming off the ignition switch under your dash are as follows (from the '93 service manual). Except where noted, all are large-gauge (probably 10-gauge or 12-gauge) wires within the same bundle, emerging from the steering column behind the dashboard, directly below the ignition switch. Some other details are added below for those folks adding alarm systems or remote starters:
RED: (two wires) Main power inputs; your remote starter should tap into these to get its own power supply, and use this input through its own relays to drive the outputs, basically mimicking the role of the ignition switch
BROWN: Accessory output, hot in Accessory or Run positions (i.e. low drain devices; e.g. wipers, radio)
ORANGE: Accessory output, hot in Run position only (i.e. high-drain devices; e.g. power windows)
PINK: Ignition circuits, hot in Run, Bulb Proveout and Start positions (i.e. engine run)
YELLOW: Start circuit, the one that cranks the starter (assuming it'* got permission from the VATS, starter enable relay, etc.)
(Do not confuse the light yellow wire above with the bright yellow air bag wire.)
For VATS-equipped cars, you will also find an orange "wire" which is actually a plastic sleeve containing two thin white wires, going to and from the ignition switch. This is the loop circuit completed when you insert the ignition key; the VATS bypass box you install will tap into this circuit to provide the correct resistance expected by the car (to fool it into thinking the key is in the ignition).
For security-system-equipped cars, you will need to locate the Factory Alarm Shutdown wire, which should be a light-green, approximately 14-gauge wire inside the driver'* (or passenger'*) door at the outside key lock. The remote starter should have a lead which grounds this wire to deactivate the security system when the car is started (or unlocked). A corresponding yellow wire, also attached to the outside key lock, will _lock_ the car if grounded, and arm the factory security system.
Your tach input connection at the coil pack should be to the white wire which is the fifth wire from the _right_ end, when viewing the coil pack from the front of the car.
_________________
Techinfo is your friend.
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