It's baaaaaaaaaaaaack.....
#1
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It'* baaaaaaaaaaaaack.....
Remember my thread back in May for the headlight switch problem when it was blowing fuses?
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=53755
Well, it'* back. So I went ahead and swapped out my switch with the extra I have, no difference. So, what to look for now? The fuse blowing is the one for all the backlighting in the car and the parking lights, also nothing dims properly. It'* really making me mad, and the thing that pisses me off is that its happening as soon as I get my temp tag to drive it.[/url]
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=53755
Well, it'* back. So I went ahead and swapped out my switch with the extra I have, no difference. So, what to look for now? The fuse blowing is the one for all the backlighting in the car and the parking lights, also nothing dims properly. It'* really making me mad, and the thing that pisses me off is that its happening as soon as I get my temp tag to drive it.[/url]
#4
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Alright, the fuse that blows. Remove that fuse from the fuse block. Set the meter to read DC voltage. Establish which side of the fuse socket has constant battery potential (batt+) by placing one lead in one side of the fuse socket, the other lead to ground. Look for 12 vdc to ground. Headlight, parking light ckts are usually hot all the time and not on an ignition bus controlled by relay. Once you determine which side is hot, this is the line side of the fuse socket, the other side of the fuse socket is the load side. This load side is the side you will be looking at with an ohm meter. Switch the meter to read resistance (low scale). Place one lead in the load side of the fuse socket, the other lead to ground. With ign. switch off, key out, headlight sw./parking light sw. off, you should read pretty high reaistance near infinity. Now turn the parking light sw. on while monitoring the meter. Is resisitance lowering, or indicating real close to 0 ohms? As a side note, you may have to remove all parking lamps from their sockets to more effectively try to isolate the problem. There may be too many parallel paths to ground with all parking lamp light bulbs installed. What you're looking for is infinite resistance on the parking light ckt. provided nothing is going to ground. Hope some of this helps out. Let us know how things are going.
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Thought I'd clear this up, I do not think it has anything to do with the parking lights, I am sure it is the backlighting in the car that is the problem. Thing of it is, Is that when I do mess with the dimmer back and forth, it barely does anything, it doesn't dim the ECC, instead it totall darkens the display, but the 2 displays on the dash do not do that, they just get really dim with either or headlight switch. It has me boggled.
#6
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Well, tell me then which fuse is blowing all the time? I thought it was the fuse that supplies the parking lights. That would be the ckt to begin troubleshooting. When fuses blow, or unwanted grounded ckts. appear, you have to begin by isolating components that could possibly be at fault. This is why you monitor the ohm meter for change of state while isolating things.