Okay, I've got the strangest problem that I've ever had that makes no sense.. To make a very long story short my 95 has a problem that GM, according to a TSB is a normal operating condition of the bonneville, my lights dim and my alt gauge drops when I'm at idle at night time for about 5 seconds then goes back to normal. So after two braindead mechanics and my local GM dealer (& about $700) they couldn't figure it out. This went on for several months.
All the while the alt gauge would also drop at idle in the day time with no accessiors on.

So flash forward.. My dashlights went out..I went to my local auto parts store, not the national ones but the old dirty dusty floor no computer one, the guys there turn me on to an old timer mechanic, a real one.. So anyway he says its the harness to the headlight switch, no big deal he says hes done them numerous times before but he did have to make me a harness himself. So he said maybe that was causing my electrical glitch. He did say that it isn't normal for a modern car to do this, maybe a 30 or 40 year old car, but not a newer one.

Okay but my car still has some strange shortcomings that he can't explain either. My car will when I make a tight turn, the alt gauge will drop close to the red in the day or night, only when I make tight turns though..Now sometimes my alt gauge will flicker at night between 12 and 14 volts with my lights and at idle will go schzio sometimes, but it doesn't drop in the red anymore, unless of course I make a tight turn. Like I said, GM issued a TSB saying this is normal.

So I live with it, I love my bonnie and it just adds to its personality. I could try to add some prozac into the gas tank maybe...Unless someone can find me a big comfy couch to park
my bonnie on for some therapy..

I notice that on my 98 car now. I don't recall it showing as much earlier in the car'* life.

When car is put into drive at idle, the motor slows down. The higher the load on the alternator the more it seems to slow. When it slows the alternator output drops and then slowly rises back to the typical levels.

I have a 4-5 year old battery in the car. It seems to be normal, but I am wondering if the battery is requiring more charging and causing a higher load. I had Walmart check the battery and system, but they only connect on a meter and measure voltage while running or starting as a judge of whether their battery is still good.

I notice the battery seems to crank a little slower than when newer. That has usually been a sign to replace the battery. Leave parking lights on for 10 minutes and then start car and see if the starter runs slower has been my warning sign in the past.

I wonder if it'* a ground connection at the motor or alternator. I'll take off the lower panel and loosen and retighten that ground connection one day soon. I have already removed and cleaned the battery cables-mine has the double layer positive connectors.

You mention having a 95.. what model? SE SSE SSEi

I'd like you to look over this thread. In one year I know of 3 95 SSEi'* with this situation. If you need a switch/connector let me know ... I get about 6-8 inches of wire with the connector when I get them.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ight=headlight

On the 98 with the problem, it'* doubtful...but wouldn't hurt to check the connector.

In the picture is that the harness to the headlight switch?? I'm a gearhead but not a mechnically inclined one if you know what I mean.

And my battery is about two years old. I understand that a heavy load can cause a temp loss in voltage, but why would it do it in the day time with no accesseries(?) on. No radio on or AC running nothing. It makes no sense. And why just when I make tight turns?? I thought the pulley might be lose but its not. I'm dumbfounded. At night the problems are infrequent.

ACKKKKK!!!!!

Oh, its an SE..

I was wonderin, I know the 3800 series II came out in 95 right. Did it come out mid-year. Mine has the series II but I saw a 95 Lesabre with the old 3800 in it for sale. Did the bonnie have both???

If you watch when you first start the car, the alternator slowly comes up to increase the voltage for charging after starting. It seems to do the same thing when the rpms drop low whether it'* under load or not under high load. Without an amp meter on the battery cable, it'* difficult to tell if it is putting current into the battery itself--there could be a load if the battery is requiring charging, whether for having been drained or having a low voltage from a bad cell.

that is the connector on a light switch. And it wasn't obvious until I popped the switch out and looked at the connector off the switch.

Nothing mechanical to get to it. Dash panel...a few more screws and it'* in your hand.

I'll check under my dash in the morning.. A second look now I can handle it.. I'll get back to ya

And yes my alt gauge does go real slow when I start the car every time. I asked each mechanic if it could be my battery, they all said battery was fine. I was always under the impression that the battery is pretty much just for starting the car and kicking in when the altenator goes bad. Am I right.. So if my gauge is slow to respond, IE: I thought it must be my battery.

All they do is put that stupid hand held ammeter on it I quess. Wouldn't a bad cell cause this like you said?? Is there another way I can check. I bought it at advance auto parts about 2 years ago but I never had them check it. I told em to give me the one with the most cranking amps when I bought it, I know it cost me like 80 bucks....

I've always only used die hards but my car died and I needed a battery at 8:30 at night and they were closer. I dunno anymore but I crawl under my dash
thanx bro'*

I checked under the dash, thats fine no problems there..
Oh well.. Its never left me stranded anywhere or not started for me so I can live with it.

Now if I could just squeeze and mount a SD 455 transverse style that would cure it I'm sure.