I have a new battery, I get power to everything, but when i try to start the engine i don't get anything, not a click or anything. I also have not a clue as to where the starter is.

Could someone help me down the path? I'm on disability recovering from radiation treatment so I can't afford to take it to a shop.

A couple quick questions before I sprint for my train...

1) Have you tried starting it in Neutral as well as in Park? You might have a bad neutral interlock switch.

2) You do not see a solidly-lit Security light blazing away on the dash after a failed attempt at starting the car, correct?

The first thing you gotta do is check them cables. If they are corroded at either end, you'll be losing a lot of juice.

Just had a battery replaced because of age and tested "failed" but not after an attempt to charge it. 93 SSEI was a little slow to fire when cold especially. A week after the new battery - yesterday - no turning of motor - not even a click. Power for lights etc and even when I tried jump start - no response. Tapped on starter motor when wife ftried to start - nothing.

That is where I am at - will go back to dealer on Monday.
However - I had similar problems 2 years ago and after a number of peculiar events and false leads - I realized that it had to be poor connection. Asked dealership to check all grounds, they found the one to the cylinder head was corroded. Hopefully that is what we will find tomorrow - a faulty electrical connection as already mentioned.

Anyone else had unusual electrical failures?

Warren, as I asked you previously:

Also, when the new battery was installed, everything was okay for a week before the car died; is that correct? If so, have the alternator checked to see if it'* actually generating enough juice to recharge the battery; Bonnevilles like to eat those. (Mine is on #4, in fact.)

If you're hurting for money, you don't need a Pontiac dealer to look at this; any competent repair shop can diagnose this.

As above; if you can give us some answers to the questions that were posted in replies to your original message, we might be able to help pin this down.

If you have the full cluster [I believe all 92+ had this], where it has the temp, oil pressure, voltmeter/ boost gauge. Do any of these gauges do a full sweep when you go to start the car?


-justin

Car taken on flatbed to dealer. On arriving, I tried starting and lo and behold it did. The problem is a faulty electrical connection or grounding somewhere. The battery tested at 735 starting Amps - above specs. This is a repeat of electrical problems in 2000 and 2002. They can mimic all sorts of other part failures. The clue here is that on turning key to start there was nothing - no clunk and only dash lights went out.

I "think" the security light came back on after the attempt. If so what is the significance of that.

Also the guages do a full sweep when I tried to start when no response. I think they do that normally - except my cluster has no voltmeter.

Will let you know the answer - hopefully there will be one.

Right; see below.

If it came on and stayed on solidly (i.e. not blinking) afterwards, your problem is that the VATS could not detect the correct resistor ship in your ignition key, and blocked starting the engine as it thought you were trying to hotwire the car. After a timeout period of three minutes, the Security light should go out and allow another try. If one key gives you this problem, try another key (after the Security light goes out again, of course).

If cleaning the little chip in the key does not help, you may need a new ignition lock cylinder since the contacts in the old one may be shot. It'* also possible to jumper the circuit through the ignition switch by installing a resistor of the appropriate value (1 of 15 possible; your key must be tested to identify which one) in the wiring harness under the dash. The downside to this is that it takes away your hotwiring protection so the car can be stolen more easily.

Right; they do that normally, and supercharged Bonnevilles get a boost gauge where normally-aspirated models get a voltmeter.

Dealer checked this AM after sitting overnite. No start. Tested starter and assure me it is the starter drawing down too many amps. Great 2 starters gone in 140K, the last one only 40K. They also tell me that all replacement starters are rebuilt!
Will keep you posted.

Huh. That seems odd to me, because you've told us that (1) you never hear the click of the solenoid, and (2) the Security light remained on afterwards.

Even if the starter was sucking down too much juice, you should hear a click as the solenoid engages. If it'* definitely dead silent under the hood when you twist the key, with no click, then nothing is closing the solenoid and the problem is not related to the starter motor.

Am I misunderstanding what you said about the Security light? Was it _blinking_ after a failed attempt at starting? Blinking mode is normal, if you have a door open; if it'* solidly lit and you can't get the starter motor to crank the engine, then VATS has a problem.