Battery draining overnight
 

OK did the traditional check and installed my meter in between the battery and the positive cable. Heres what happens: For about 10sec. I get a draw of about 4 amps then it drops to 0.1 amps for 20 seconds and then back to the 10sec. draw again. This cycle just keeps going and going.

I pulled all of the fuses under the dash last night and no change.

I dont have any other thoughts. I dont think the computer can draw anything in the 4 amp range, but I am not sure.

Also, I cannot hear anything cycling in the car. I was hoping to here maybe a relay clicking or something. HELP?

Did you pull ALL of the fuses? Including the ones under the hood and up in the passenger kickpanel? There are quite a few fuses in these cars, make sure you pull them one at a time so you can diagnose the problem easier.

draw
 

These battery drain issues could be difficult to find. Sounds like some kind of timer shorted. Are there any after market alarms, amps etc installed?

I didnt realize there are fuses in the passenger kick panel, so I'll have to check that. Also under the hood, I thought there were only relays, so i'll have to check their as well.

And I am the original owner, no alarms or starters.....

I check for lights in trunk and glovebox staying on. If you open them they get hot quick; but the surrounding plastic will be hot if they're staying on while closed. If you just turned themon when you opened the glovebox or trunk or hood, the bulb will be hot but the surround part will not.

A neighbor has a Gran Prix and had trouble with quick (overnight) battery drain that was kind of random. A shadetree mechanic with great knowledge lives next to him and put in a new starter. Problem gone. Something in the starter can cause a drain.

Last night I started to pull the fuses from under the hood. Found one rated at 60 amp that once pulled, the problem went away. Its labeled Horn, Power Locks and Trunk release.

What could be causing a draw on and off? If there was a light on, the draw would be all the time. Now the fuse I just pulled, those are just plain switches. If any of them were stuck it would be a constant draw.

Any thoughts?

(4 amps is alot of draw for interior or trunk lights for future reference).

There is a possibility of corrosion in the maxifuse relay center behind that 60 amp fuse. You may have to dig.

In the meantime, let's isolate the 3 systems. If they are isolated, we'll come back to the fuse.

Horns:
Pull fuse 4 on the passenger side (above kickpanel at the base of the passenger's A-pillar). If that stops the problem, put the fuse back in and pull the relay. It's in the maxifuse relay center under the hood. As you face the front of the car, it's #2 from the left (second one towards the center of the car from the passenger side strut tower). Did either or both of these tests stop the current draw?

Door Locks:
Pull fuse 3 in the RH fuse panel described in 'Horns' above. Does the draw stop? If not, put that fuse back and pull CB4 (circuit breaker 4) from the main IP fuse box above your brake pedal. If that doesn't stop the draw, put it back and pull the door lock relay in the right side fusebox described in 'horns' above. Did any or all of these 3 tests stop the current draw?

Trunk Release:
Split circuit here depending on whether you have RAC (retained accessory power) or not. You do, since you have an SSE. Does your RAC work? Turn off the car with the stereo playing and all doors closed. Stereo should continue to play for about 2 minutes, then shut off. If that works or not, pull Fuse 2 above the brake pedal. Does the draw stop?

fuse
 

My guess is the third item. Radio or power antenna hung up and cycling on and off.

Ok, I have a few things to check. I'm reading this at work so it will have to wait till I get home.

Last night I checked for the fuses on the passanger side. Are they in plain sight? Or do I have to remove something to see them?

willwren, I agree with the 4 amps being alot for the interior lights. I think I was getting less than 3 with all of the interior lights on.

Right at the moment I cant get the radio to work cause I cant remember the code to unlock it.

You have to remove the passenger side hush panel. Above the RF passenger's feet. IIRC, 3 screws along the near ege, one twist-nut on the firewall. Drop that piece of insulated plastic down, and you'll see everything you need on the right side at the base of the A-pillar.