OK, Friday I was on my way home when my car just died out of nowhere. I started it right back up and waited for a second. I put it in drive and drove like 15 seconds before it cut off again. I started it again and started driving when it shut off again. Finally, I made it far enough away from traffic to pull over and I waited like 15 minutes. I started it up again and began to drive and within the minute it shut off again. Everytime it cut off the HU read check gages. After not being able to drive the car for more than 20seconds I got it towed to my mechanic. I has had it all weekend and I just talked to him and he said the scanner is giving him a code for a knock sensor. He explained that it wasnt't getting enough electrical current. He said he didnt want to change it because he wasn't sure that would solve the problem. With that being said I told him the 2 days before it started cutting off I lost power to my drivers seat as well as the door locks. He says I definitely have an electrical problem which they don't really do. I love the car to death but its starting to cost me too much money too frequently. Does anybody have any idea how these three problems could be related?? If so I really could use some ideas.

Power related problems are common enough on our cars. They use a lot of it.

First thing I'd be checking is under the seat to make sure no wiring got pinched. The next thing I'd look at is the ground busses by the front doors. Also removing and cleaning connections at all ends of all battery cables ensuring you remove the boots from the battery end for inspection of the wire under the boot.

I'm putting my money on the ground buss though. Off to find the link or someone will get it before me.

Is there any wetness on your carpet? Has there been any water inside the car that you have noticed recently or in the recent past.

You may want to inspect the bus connectors for corrosion as shown in this tech info write-up

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=102

Then, if the Ground Bus Connectors check out OK, and even if they don't, do a very thorough cleaning of all your battery connections, at BOTH ends of each battery cable and specifically under the connection boots. As mentioned above.

These are not expensive fixes and are very common in these cars as they get older. Consider it a maintenance item.

BTW, do yourself and us a favor by putting you car'* year and trim level in your signature by clicking on "Profile" up top of this page and adding the info to your signature. That will make it much easier for us to provide help if there is a year/trim level specific problem you need addressed.

I have absolutely no wetness to the carpetinside the car. A few weeks ago I cleaned the battery cables when my car wouldn't start. It ended being the crank sensor and coil pack. I was going to check the bus connectors under the seat the day before it sropped but we had some weird weather and it was raining and snowing. I never got the chance though because the next day it stopped running on me. When I go to the mechanic I will tell him to check the bus connectors.

OK, I visited my car at the mechanic today and he was telling me that my battery dies out completely. My car has to e hooked up to a battery charger in order for it to stay on long enough for them to check it. He also said that it isnt necessarily that the knock sensor is bad, but not getting enough voltage. He told me it might be one of three things: either something with the wiring, an alternator, or a battery. Does anyone know if any of these are possibilities?

Any of those could be the issue. Need to begin by insuring the battery is good. Also should test the alternator to insure it is showing good voltage. As was said, before, battery cables need to be checked and cleaned at all ends (even under the cable boots) and battery terminals need to be checked to insure there is enough surface for the cables to contact an "bite" into. It can't be pointed out often enough that poor contections or corroded battery cables have cuased many a Bonne to cut out and die. After that, you may need to begin the process of checking for a parasitic drain, as I did recently in this thread.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ight=parasitic

What he said.

IIRC, your mechanic did say he'* not good with electrical stuff. That must be true, because anyone else, having the capability, would have done all those tests already and should have had your answer for you. Not trying to knock your mechanic at all, but you really should have it taken to or visited by someone who knows auto electric.

I say this, because you have taken it in to a shop for a reason. Whatever that reason is, whether it be that you don't have the tools, desire, or confidence to diagnose it yourself, doesn't matter. What matters is that you get it up and running. In order to do that, it needs some electrical diagnosis, as pointed out above. Until someone can do the tests to eliminate each item as a possibility (or find the problem), you and your mechanic are just chasing your tails.

Is there any shop around you that specializes in auto electric?

Yea there is a shop directly across the street from his that handles electrical work. I just ofund out recently that he doesn't specialize in electrical. He'* going to test the battery and alternator today so if he can't conclude anything from those two then I will have to take it to someone who can.

I totally forgot to mention this at first. Right before my car started cutting off my battery hand was all the way in the red. It wasn't at the red before the 8, but the in the red past the 12. Does that give anyone a better idea of what might be wrong?