The first time this fall I tried to use my rear window defroster, but found out that it didn't work. I hit the button and the light came on and stayed on like it normally would. However, I noticed that the rear window wasn't defogging.

Last time I used it (probably this spring) everything seemed to work (entire grid).

There are postings referencing the fuse, relay and the ground.

I pulled the back seat and cleaned the ground on the driver’* side (non on the passenger side) and confirmed that the ground was secure. I also checked the relay by using a battery charger and a multi-meter and it appeared to be working normally. I also checked the 40A fuse next to the relay, and it tested ok with the meter as well as when the car was on, there was power above both legs (looks like test points above the fuse).

I also checked the grid itself. By using the meter, I identified that the passenger side of the rear window was the negative side (1 end of the meter on the battery). I then tried to do the same test (car on, R. Defroster button on, but car not running), but with on the drivers side. However, that side was totally dead (tried several grids).

Does the relay supply power directly to the grid or are there additional components on the way? I am wondering if there it is a fried component, bad wire or something else.

Thanks for your help

did you try taking the connectors off and measure from the 12v to ground and do the wire. sometimes the connector are bad, same with other side but ohms reading to ground.

After ripping off the trim around the back window...

I don't think the connector is supposed to look like this. Then again, it must be the high performance design as it must help with ventilation.

http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/...t=DSCN1168.jpg

The next question will be, if I should splice in a new wire to the existing connector or run down to a bone yard and get a connector off a car there?

Thanks again for the help.

i would get the connector and as much wire as you can, the connector being loose is what causes the heat. it looks like the first what you can see in the pic is burned. make sure you solder the connections, crimps and the like arent good for cars and vibrations and high current you'll end up with another mess or burned up car at worst.

Will do.

I'll hit the boneyard this weekend (should be decent weather I hear) and grab a good chunk of both the male and female ends of the connector and solder it in.

Have a good one

And Thanks.