I've been driving around now for well over a year with a fuel gauge that reads full when filled, but once it gets past 1/2 way, the needle goes the opposite direction towards the full position. I use my trip odometer to determine when I need to fill up (roughly around 290 miles city). I know that this is probably the sending unit, however, I also know there are some tech notes out there that say it'* a resistor problem.

Wilren wrote an article for the 92-93'*: (http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=39)

The 00'* have a nice trap door in the trunk, which makes removing the sending unit easier than dropping the tank (such as the case w/ my 99').

Does anyone have any suggestions for the 99' ??

Moving to 92-99.

The Performance forum is talk about performance upgrades to your car, not for mechanical issues.

You have no trap door. You must drop the tank.

Depending on what year you have, there may be just a repair kit that replaces a module on the sender, rather than the whole sender itself.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...uel+sender+kit

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=71718

Shiza! That'* what I figured. I was hoping there would be a cheaper fix than dropping the tank. I'm not apt to do that kind of work, so I'll just wait until necissary. Not ready to drop $600+ at the dealer yet.

Thanks for the advice and sorry I posted this in the wrong topic.

I found a site selling:

Official GM Fuel Pump Resistor Kit - $37.99

http://www.pfyc.com/pc/WB3006/GPUNDE...istor+Kit.html

Has anyone tried this yet?

99SEI

I just put in a "new" sending unit in a 1996...one I got at a Salvage Yard for $20. GM Dealers list the sending unit at $565...GM Partsdirect.com offers it for $285...Auto Zone has one for $199. That'* just the sending unit... a fuel pump adds another $100 plus!!!

I took a volt-ohm meter with me to the slavage yard and I tested the sender, on a 96 the range is 0 to 90 ohms.. The one I ended up buying seemed to be pretty accurate in terms of the output changing as the float moved 90 ohms at full 0 ohms at empty, 40-50 at 1/2 way etc. . I believe I read in a post on this site that your model may have a 0 to 240 ohm range, make sure what your'* is supposed to be and test it before you install it..

It'* a big job but it'* not impossible. I had installed a fuel pump once before in my wife'* Grand Caravan. You want to make sure that the car is securely set on jack stands. It helps if you can run the tank as empty as possible. There are some great posts on this site about the steps you would take etc. A couple of things that I experienced that weren't covered in the posts.

1. I found it very beneficial to remove both rear wheels...it gave me better access to the fill and evap hoses which have to be removed from the tank on the drivers side and having the right rear wheel off gave me better access to the electrical connections and the fuel line connections.

2. I found it a lot easier to remove thes fill and evap hoses at the tank than at the filler neck. But I had run my tank down to a very low amount of gas..even so as I tipped the tank..gas ran out of the inlets...I used a clean 2 gallon plastic bucket and then used a long funnel with a strainer in it and poured it into another car, be sure to keep 3 gallons of gas handy to refill the tank when your done.

3. The gas lines were easier to disconnect at the fuel filter than at the tank, all three lines had quick disconnects at/near the fuel filter. The quick connects at the tank/sending unit were badly rusted and did not want to disconnect easily. The 3 lines were all held in place in a single plastic holder that snaps into the side rail of the car near the filter...disconnecting them at the filter and popping that holder out of the frame was easier than disconnecting at the sender... I know because I had to drop the tank a 2nd time because I didn't install the pump right into the sender...and it was so much easier this way.

4. Make sure you put enough gas back in the tank when you're done. 3 or so gallons of should do it. The pump has to have enough gas to pump. If you have gas cans great..if not if you have a few empty 1 gallon windshield washer solvent bottles they can hold gas ifor a short period of time in a pinch.

Allow yourself plenty of time I got a Chilton'* GM SErvice manual form the library and read and re-read the steps recommended prior to starting.

INTENSE now offers a:

Casper’* Electronics Fuel Pump "HotWire" Kit.

Price: $69.99
Description: It’* a known fact that a weak link in tuning your supercharged 3800 is the inadequate fuel pump wiring system. When you install a higher capacity fuel pump, you place a greater demand on the wiring to the pump. Voltage drop in excess of 2 volts has been observed due to the factory'* wiring being unable to pass sufficient current to the pump. Casper’* plug-and-play kit remedies this problem by supplying a larger gauge wire to the pump. NO WIRES TO CUT! Includes SEALED relay, SEALED fuse holder and all OEM style wiring and connectors. Casper’* has sold THOUSANDS of these to the Grand National market with great success! Now they are available for the 3800!

Do you think this would solve my issue?

Anyone?

No, this won't help you with your fuel sender problem.

And in my experience the connectors on the kit (00+) are completely different than your 99.

Since you haven't gotten around to fixing this yet.. allow me to take a moment and give some advice.

First off.. get the resistor from Radio Shack for less than a dollar, track down the wire and follow the TSB to possibly fix the problem.

If that doesn't work.. get that level sender kit you referenced and Git'r done.