Symptoms:

Power door locks will not unlock when using button on door or remote. They will lock when using either of these, but no unlock. When using remote to attempt to unlock doors, the courtesy lamps light up...so I would guess that is good news.

All fuses are fine...tried a new relay for the door locks (second one up from the floor on the panel under the glovebox.) Made no difference with an old relay or a new one. Still the problem exists...

An interesting twist on the problem---I had to take both relays into the store because the clerk thought I was returning the bad one... So, I left the store with my old, but good one in my pocket after the return was done. But, I forgot to install it before I left the parking lot...

So, after my wife took the car for the afternoon, I remembered when I reached into my pocket. Then went back out to the car to re-install it where it belongs. I do that and no power lock or unlock... Hmmm. A fuse. OK. I forget what position it is in, but up toward the top of the panel under the glove box. 20A power lock fuse. It was blown. So, I replace it and zap...made some fireworks. Blown. OK, well just replace it again. ZAP. Higher amperage (just for a sec, then I was going to remove...) 25A...blown...30A blown.

What'* up??? Now I have now power lock or unlock because I can't get a fuse to go back in there without blowing the fuse and scaring the crap out of me with a lightshow. Any ideas???

Thanks.

Stop trying bigger fuses you're gonna melt wires. Be patient someone will come up with some things to check.

But curiousity got the best of me and I had to know. I am not going to melt a wire if it was only in there for less than one second am I? Doubtful. Only if someone uses a higher amperage fuse to constantly hold an otherwise blowing fuse circuit would that be the case. I was curious, but I am not stupid. (IE, if a 25A would have held, I wouldn't have kept it in there for longer than I did originally...around one second.

Try pulling the relay then putting the fuse in. I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram. If you send me a PM with your Email address I'll send it to you. Do you have a voltmeter?

is there any wetness on the floor of your car...pull back the carpet, and look at the Ground Busses that are just infront on the front doors, Under the carpet

I just pulled the drivers side carpet back and yes there was a little moisture in there. It was collecting in the indent that the e-brake cable passes though the floor. No water other than that though.

There are 2 fuses & 3 relays (2 may be built into 1 module) that are part of the locking circuit. I'm assuming the fuse that is blowing is #1 not #2. If that is not correct ignore the following & let us know.

Try both door lock switches to see if they return to the 'neutral' or 'center' position after pressing lock & unlock. If the switches seem to be working properly remove fuse #2 & the relay you swapped. Put a new fuse in #1. If fuse #1 didn't blow put fuse #2 back in. If neither fuse blows try unlocking the doors from both switches. Only the driver door should work without the relay. After unlocking from both switches try locking from both switches. All four doors should lock. If neither fuse has blown replace the relay & try locking & unlocking. Let us know at which step the fuse blows.